Advice on Necessities for DE Setup..
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Advice on Necessities for DE Setup..
Im not looking to set any records but to have an enjoyable DE weekend warrior.. Im not a suspension Guru so any advice is greatly appreciated.. Here is a list of what i have now and id like advice on anything needed before I get my alignment done.. I dont know much about Camber kits and control arms being needed for max camber etc.. Thanks in advance..
Mike
RPF1 Wheels w/ nt01 Tires 225/255
Skunk Pro C Coilovers 14k Springs
Eibach front and rear Sways
DBA 4000 Rotors Slotted
Hawk Blue 9012 Pads
Braided Brake lines
Brake Ducts w/ Bumper Inlets
SRF Fluid
Mike
RPF1 Wheels w/ nt01 Tires 225/255
Skunk Pro C Coilovers 14k Springs
Eibach front and rear Sways
DBA 4000 Rotors Slotted
Hawk Blue 9012 Pads
Braided Brake lines
Brake Ducts w/ Bumper Inlets
SRF Fluid
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From: Hendersonville TN
I vote for taking her to the track as she is now, after the alignment of course. Learn the car as it is now before you make too many more changes. Brakes and brake fluild are the two best things from bone stock and you already have that. Nothing wrong with bone stock for a few track days either. There are a few guys that track/time trial on OEM shocks and springs! 
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From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by Liquidsation,Oct 27 2010, 02:59 AM
I vote for taking her to the track as she is now, after the alignment of course. Learn the car as it is now before you make too many more changes. Brakes and brake fluild are the two best things from bone stock and you already have that. Nothing wrong with bone stock for a few track days either. There are a few guys that track/time trial on OEM shocks and springs!
Is this your first hpde? I would recommend going out on good street tires vs nt01s. They will help your learn the car better and wont hide driver error.
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Originally Posted by Beard,Oct 27 2010, 07:38 AM
^what he said...
Is this your first hpde? I would recommend going out on good street tires vs nt01s. They will help your learn the car better and wont hide driver error.
Is this your first hpde? I would recommend going out on good street tires vs nt01s. They will help your learn the car better and wont hide driver error.
Mike
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From: St. Louis
If this isn't your first rodeo, lose the slotted rotors in favor of OEM style blanks. If you actually plan to use your brakes and do multiple events, they will crack along the slots. Though they should last longer, the OEM ones will crack eventually, too, so the idea is to replace them cheap.
What is this: "Eibach front and rear Sways" ? What are the rates relative to each other and relative to the stock bars? What was the reasoning behind getting these?
What is this: "Eibach front and rear Sways" ? What are the rates relative to each other and relative to the stock bars? What was the reasoning behind getting these?
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Originally Posted by FormulaRedline,Oct 27 2010, 09:59 AM
If this isn't your first rodeo, lose the slotted rotors in favor of OEM style blanks. If you actually plan to use your brakes and do multiple events, they will crack along the slots. Though they should last longer, the OEM ones will crack eventually, too, so the idea is to replace them cheap.
What is this: "Eibach front and rear Sways" ? What are the rates relative to each other and relative to the stock bars? What was the reasoning behind getting these?
What is this: "Eibach front and rear Sways" ? What are the rates relative to each other and relative to the stock bars? What was the reasoning behind getting these?
im up for another suggestion on sways unless your saying they are not needed.. they are 32mm front and 29mm rear.. Thanks for the advice..
Mike
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From: St. Louis
Stock spring rates are ~100lbf/in stiffer in the rear. Even with square spring rates and a rear wing, I find I need to run a much stiffer front bar or the car is loose. Stock class autocross guys, who can't change the spring rates, run super stiff front bars with stock rears. Conversely, many people on the track disconnect the rear sway bar. However, you are running a pretty big stagger when most of these people are running square setups, so you may be ok. But the point is the balance is pretty sensitive to the bar and spring changes and a good handling car can go bad pretty quick when you start changing these.
If I were you, I would have left the stock bars on and disconnected the rear if I was loose. I suppose you could do this with the Eibach's, too, I just don't know how stiff they are.
In general, you'll find this car pretty well setup form the factory. Unlike other cars where the best strategy may be to throw money at it and replace any part you can with aftermarket, there isn't a lot to be gained this way on the S2000 in terms of lap times, and you may even make it slower. You came to the right place, though. Do your research and ask your questions on this forum and you can benefit from others' trial and error. For example, I don't think you'll find many of the fastest guys around here using BBKs.
If I were you, I would have left the stock bars on and disconnected the rear if I was loose. I suppose you could do this with the Eibach's, too, I just don't know how stiff they are.
In general, you'll find this car pretty well setup form the factory. Unlike other cars where the best strategy may be to throw money at it and replace any part you can with aftermarket, there isn't a lot to be gained this way on the S2000 in terms of lap times, and you may even make it slower. You came to the right place, though. Do your research and ask your questions on this forum and you can benefit from others' trial and error. For example, I don't think you'll find many of the fastest guys around here using BBKs.
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From: Redmond, Washington, USA
You're confusing what you want to do with the car with what you should do to the car.
As far as what you want to do, have at it. But, other than proper race pads and fluid of your choice (personally, I hate Hawk Blues), there's nothing you need to do to this car to make it very track worthy. And keep in mind that stiffer shocks/springs make it less comfortable on the public road, and may (depending on what you do) make it ineligible for stock-class autocross (if that ever would be a consideration).
I put perhaps 30 track days on my car with the only modifications being Toyo RA-1 tires (on stock wheels), race pads and fluid, and front brake vents.
At track days, it's not a matter of how fast you're going relative to others (there always will be faster and slower folks than you at the typical track day, regardless of how good you are, when driving a relatively low-powered car), but learning to get the most out of what you have, with a good, safe setup.
As I said, knock yourself out with all the mods you want; but be aware that few of them will make any real difference to the car's ability on the track.
As far as what you want to do, have at it. But, other than proper race pads and fluid of your choice (personally, I hate Hawk Blues), there's nothing you need to do to this car to make it very track worthy. And keep in mind that stiffer shocks/springs make it less comfortable on the public road, and may (depending on what you do) make it ineligible for stock-class autocross (if that ever would be a consideration).
I put perhaps 30 track days on my car with the only modifications being Toyo RA-1 tires (on stock wheels), race pads and fluid, and front brake vents.
At track days, it's not a matter of how fast you're going relative to others (there always will be faster and slower folks than you at the typical track day, regardless of how good you are, when driving a relatively low-powered car), but learning to get the most out of what you have, with a good, safe setup.
As I said, knock yourself out with all the mods you want; but be aware that few of them will make any real difference to the car's ability on the track.
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Originally Posted by FormulaRedline,Oct 27 2010, 10:31 AM
Stock spring rates are ~100lbf/in stiffer in the rear. Even with square spring rates and a rear wing, I find I need to run a much stiffer front bar or the car is loose. Stock class autocross guys, who can't change the spring rates, run super stiff front bars with stock rears. Conversely, many people on the track disconnect the rear sway bar. However, you are running a pretty big stagger when most of these people are running square setups, so you may be ok. But the point is the balance is pretty sensitive to the bar and spring changes and a good handling car can go bad pretty quick when you start changing these.
If I were you, I would have left the stock bars on and disconnected the rear if I was loose. I suppose you could do this with the Eibach's, too, I just don't know how stiff they are.
In general, you'll find this car pretty well setup form the factory. Unlike other cars where the best strategy may be to throw money at it and replace any part you can with aftermarket, there isn't a lot to be gained this way on the S2000 in terms of lap times, and you may even make it slower. You came to the right place, though. Do your research and ask your questions on this forum and you can benefit from others' trial and error. For example, I don't think you'll find many of the fastest guys around here using BBKs.
If I were you, I would have left the stock bars on and disconnected the rear if I was loose. I suppose you could do this with the Eibach's, too, I just don't know how stiff they are.
In general, you'll find this car pretty well setup form the factory. Unlike other cars where the best strategy may be to throw money at it and replace any part you can with aftermarket, there isn't a lot to be gained this way on the S2000 in terms of lap times, and you may even make it slower. You came to the right place, though. Do your research and ask your questions on this forum and you can benefit from others' trial and error. For example, I don't think you'll find many of the fastest guys around here using BBKs.
Your suggestion is run the front bar stiff and rear loose.. Ok.. Was the opposite on the subie and my porsche AWD.. Ill set the sways up that way and see how it feels.. I can always adjust or swap back in the rear bar..
I appreciate the advice from someone with experience thats why i figured this forum section would help the most.. I havent tried the OEM brakes yet on track so ill see how the car feels with them and report back my thoughts..
Any recommendation on pads?? the car would be RARELY street driven so i dont care about heat up, noise etc..
Mike
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Originally Posted by 124Spider,Oct 27 2010, 10:39 AM
You're confusing what you want to do with the car with what you should do to the car.
As far as what you want to do, have at it. But, other than proper race pads and fluid of your choice (personally, I hate Hawk Blues), there's nothing you need to do to this car to make it very track worthy. And keep in mind that stiffer shocks/springs make it less comfortable on the public road, and may (depending on what you do) make it ineligible for stock-class autocross (if that ever would be a consideration).
I put perhaps 30 track days on my car with the only modifications being Toyo RA-1 tires (on stock wheels), race pads and fluid, and front brake vents.
At track days, it's not a matter of how fast you're going relative to others (there always will be faster and slower folks than you at the typical track day, regardless of how good you are, when driving a relatively low-powered car), but learning to get the most out of what you have, with a good, safe setup.
As I said, knock yourself out with all the mods you want; but be aware that few of them will make any real difference to the car's ability on the track.
As far as what you want to do, have at it. But, other than proper race pads and fluid of your choice (personally, I hate Hawk Blues), there's nothing you need to do to this car to make it very track worthy. And keep in mind that stiffer shocks/springs make it less comfortable on the public road, and may (depending on what you do) make it ineligible for stock-class autocross (if that ever would be a consideration).
I put perhaps 30 track days on my car with the only modifications being Toyo RA-1 tires (on stock wheels), race pads and fluid, and front brake vents.
At track days, it's not a matter of how fast you're going relative to others (there always will be faster and slower folks than you at the typical track day, regardless of how good you are, when driving a relatively low-powered car), but learning to get the most out of what you have, with a good, safe setup.
As I said, knock yourself out with all the mods you want; but be aware that few of them will make any real difference to the car's ability on the track.
I have no interest in getting involved in any classes with rules etc.. I use the car simply for weekend DE events with Chin Motorsports, PCA, etc.. There is always someone faster , trust me i know.. I had miatas that would hang tight with my Gt3 on some tracks..
Mike