i say get an aggressive alignment now and go nuts. if you're willing to pay for expensive srf brake fluid, $80 for alignment should be easy to do.

i'd bet that if/when you want to start spending money, you'll go with a non-staggered wheel setup, bigger front sway, front camber adjusters, and another alignment.

 

The SRF fluid isnt really bad compared to RBF600 considering you get 2x as much per bottle.. I found i had to bleed my brakes less with the SRF.. I would run 6 hours per weekend and bleed every 3 weekends..

I was considering non staggered just happened to get a deal on these wheels so i grabbed them..

is there something larger than 32mm for front sway?? or suggestion would be great.. I usually run whiteline but these came as a combo and were larger than whiteline i believe.. all these parts i have sitting that i can resell either way if there is another choice.. Thanks!!

Mike

 

Subarus are heavy cars with front-heavy weight distribution, soft suspensions, and understeer-inducing AWD. S2000s are relatively light cars with low polar moment of inertia, oversteer-inducing bumpsteer in the rear suspension, and RWD.

The reason setup recommendations for the S2000 differ from those for the Subaru is that they're completely different cars.

 

[QUOTE=PedalFaster,Oct 27 2010, 12:02 PM] Subarus are heavy cars with front-heavy weight distribution, soft suspensions, and understeer-inducing AWD.

 

lots of good info in this thread.

I tracked a Subaru for 4 yrs and have been tracking an S2000 now for 2. I loved a big rear swaybar and using the AWD to save my ass After exhaustive reading on this forum I began tracking my 2004 S2K with the following mods.

- ATE brake fluid, redline in the trans and diff, radiator flush
- centric rotors (cracked, now using cheaper blanks found online)
- Carbotech XP10F/XP8R (I burn thru the 10's quick, looking for a better front pad now)
- quantum motorsports race brake cooling ducts
- track alignment (-1.5F, -2.0 rear camber, slight toe out in the front and rear toe in
- RE11's 225F/255R on AP2 rears (17x8.5)
- Saner front swaybar set in the middle
- harddog rollbar
- cobra seat
- schroth harnesses 6pt harness
- H&N restraint


Car weights 2790lbs as is (gutted behind the seats)

Its amazing to me the number of modded up S2K's I have lapped with a very basic setup. I have been happy with the above mods and with the addition of some data logging I am comfortable in saying that I am close to my limits with this setup and am now researching additional mods. (255's all around, coilovers with 12-14K springs, SPC front camber joints)

I find the car alot more rewarding to drive at the limit than I did with AWD, good luck

 

Great information.. Really appreciate the mod list to look over.. Yes the AWD will save your ass for sure.. It was fun but as you said not as rewarding as RWD.. I felt the same with my GT3 vs my 997tt.. The 997tt i was faster because it was just easier to drive but i was using the car as a crutch with 540whp and AWD.. The gt3 i was fearful of crashing so i didnt push as hard or drive it as well either.. I loved the Re11's and thought about using them this go around but figured i would try a 100 treadwear tire i hadnt used previously to see how i liked it..

Thanks again for all the info..

Mike

 

Im going to just use the Eibach from Sway and leave the back stock.. If i need to drop the rear i can do it at the track but ill try things out with it on..

 

- RE11's 225F/255R on AP2 rears (17x8.5)
- Saner front swaybar set in the middle

that sounds like too much front bar and not enough tire
mine pushed a bit even with the saner on more than soft with a 255 front tire it was ploughing like crazy when I had a 235 front tire

maybe if you are coming from a understeery car

 

AP1 vs AP2
Amount of front toe out
Amount of rear toe in
Tire pressures

To many variables for me to guess. I have run with the bar full stiff at an autocross with 17x9 949's and 255's all around and it understeered and generally the handling sucked.

On track with the streched 225 and the saner bar on either full soft or in the middle the car works for me. It trail brakes very well, rotates good underthrottle, and can oversteer at will.

 

The things I know I would need to have fun on a track:

Cobalt Friction XR2/XR5 pads for a fade free track day, though I can drive around the fade on the updated OEM pads
Good brake fluid
Max front camber/2.0 negative rear
good tires
good oil
MT90
Data acquisition

Since you mentioned RPF1s and coilovers, might I recommend 17x9s all around, 255s, and CR front springs/shocks. I run this setup and I really like it. Plus, it can be had on the cheap.