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Analyze my setup...

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Old May 5, 2008 | 06:09 AM
  #101  
DER MotorSports's Avatar
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we do suspension for a living and seems you have classic case of too much toe in front resulting in a contribution to your looseness later and combined with too much rebound (at least on the rear dampers).

as to camber, setting at a shop is only a guess even with data from a previous outing. the only way to determine accurate camber setting is with a probe pyrometre - good cheap ones run about 100-150 depending on whether you get a protective case which is recommended. cold temps mean nothing - it is the hot temps that matter. each r cpd tyre manufacturer is different for optimum but nearly all fall in the 35-40 range - big range but that's what it is. street tyres should be running hot what the manufacturer suggests typically around 36. if you want email me and we can discuss - pming is too much a hassel use the email option please.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 06:12 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by S2Kretard,Apr 14 2008, 07:58 PM
Billy Johnson was my instructor and I ran a 3:17
that's a great name (I'm Bill[y] Johnson also, haha)
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Old May 5, 2008 | 10:53 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by mikegarrison,Apr 15 2008, 07:02 PM
Which one you use is not as important as it is to use the same one all the time.

However, they don't last forever, so it's a good idea to have a few and double check them against each other every so often, just to make sure none of them have gotten too messed up.

Or you could get a really good one and carefully calibrate it often, but that's way too expensive unless you are talking about a pro team.
Actually it is free to calibrate - just go to any event where tyre companies are providing support - typically Mich and Goodyear. The busters will have calibrated gauges - just hand yours over with some white gaffers tape on back and they will write the actual vs your reading for free. Any NASCAR, GrandAM, ALMS &c event has them there. May not be calibration per se but who cares if you know 40 on your gauge is actually 38,5, right? Seriously, don't insult them with some stupid electric gauge (unless truely pro ala intercomp or longacre) or dragger type - use a real analogue face racer's gauge ala intercomp, longacre or others.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 10:22 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by ESCALVANTE,Apr 8 2008, 06:37 PM
..Although I would love to replace the stock rear sway, I won't have time before Friday's event. I'll do it before the next event for sure...
It sounds to me you could be experiencing the inside rear wheel in the air in turns more now than before. Classic case for this is what several posts above "hint" about. What I would do is... decrease the "relative" stiffness of rear sway bar

Assumptions:
- rear inside tire in air- stock - a stock front and a stock rear sway bar lifts the rear wheel too much.
- rear inside tire in air - current - stiffer front and stiffer rear

Resolutions:
- stock changed - stock front and disconnected rearbar.
- current changed- a stiffer front and a stock rearbar.
- current changed) stiffer front and disconnected rearbar. *This could be overkill though as the relative difference may be too great.

Good luck and I did recommend this to s2k driver in Dubai racing last month and he said it helped out at least 2 seconds. He went from stock front, stock rear to stock front and disconnected rear and improved his times several seconds. He also said it was much more controllable. It was an exhibition for the GP2 event so he was happy to pick up some time for it
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