What is your front bar situation?

Out of those I would consider a whiff of toe out in rear.

Adjustable shocks might help.

So might going down a few pounds in front and up a few in rear.

 

Stock MS-R front(it's big!) and a 21mm Hotchkis rear bar on middle setting(tried stiffest and didn't seem to make a lick of difference).
I use koni yellows that have been converted to double adjustable and de-gassed. Usually about 1-1.5 turns from soft on rebound in front and 6 clicks from soft on compression front(of 12 available)
1 turn rebound rear and 2 clicks of compression rear.

Harvey/Fenter have never eliminated the steady state understeer the NC miatas have....and are super quick despite this fact!

I do think I still have to some room to get the car less pushy without hurting the transitional response/confidence...which is pretty good as the car sits

 

well, I was going to do my write-up about the Crows Landing Tour and Pro, but I guess I'll chime in here first.

For those complaining about the AP1 in BS, yes, it's probably not the car to have, but I see a whole lot of whining with no effort in trying!!!!

I see a lot of whining about the wheels/using AP2 wheels. Folks, there is no way the SAC (Stock Advisory Committee) will allow just AP1s to run AP2 wheels. Any rule changes they make has to be a broad rule change for ALL OF STREET CLASS. Not JUST for whining AP1 owners. So if you allow older S2000s to run on the same wheels as the newer S2000s, then you have to let ALL cars in street classes run the bigger wheels of their newer/older models. That would be a huge shakeup in the whole Street category, and something that will most likely never happen. So please stop asking the SAC for an allowance like that and please stop whining about it guys.

The thing that annoys me about all this whining is that NO ONE has even BOTHERED to try running +1 wheels and tires. That may not be as easy or cheap as slapping on a set of AP2 wheels, but it would gain at least half the gain that running AP2 wheels would. I own an AP1 (its for sale), and if I were to run it competitively, I'd just stick with the 16s in the front with 225s, and get a set of AP2 rears, take it to a fab shop, have them cut out an inch of width, weld them back together, and ta-da, legal real wheels that I'd throw some 245/40R17s on. If you really want to be really cheap, just use AP2 FRONT wheels, tell your fellow class competitors that you're running .5 inch NARROWER wheels in the rear, and slap on 245/40R17s. no one will givve a crap if you're running wheels that are NARROWER. This will give you an idea of how much you'd gain if you got proper 17x7.5 in the rear. This would give the AP1 the needed rear tire to play in BS. Again, maybe not a front runner, but not as terrible as some of you guys are whining about.

What you guys NEED to do is write letters to get the Corvettes put BACK where they used to be, in SS/AS. If they let the C5 base vette stay in BS, that car is going to be the overdog, and it won't matter what other cars are in BS. But in order to put the base C5 back to AS, they are going to need to move all the ZO6/GS vettes and Vipers back to SS where they belong.

As for STI vs AP1/AP2, the S2000 should at LEAST be as fast as the STI, if not faster. People have tried and failed to run STIs competitively at the National level against S2000s, and all have given up. If an STI is going faster, its more likely to do with driving and not the car, unless it was a specific course type or course surface situation.



James Yom

 

And if you guys aren't familiar, Yom, Janzen and Barbato (who all posted in this thread) are pretty much the fastest S2000 drivers out there along with Thorne and Pfannenschmidt.

 

I would leave rear toe zero.
Go up full stiff in rear bar.
Increase front rebound and increase rear compression.
Go up 2 psi in rear.

 

Fixed that for you.

 

Hahaha, I said "probably", because if anyone can get it done in an AP1, its Mr .002 himself!

 

Want to here here to what James posted. As most know, I don't own a S2000 and come here to mine good valuable information on tires and whatnot but as a Z3 owner, I've never had the car to have or even had a car thought to be competitive in any class.

 

Hahaha, I said "probably", because if anyone can get it done in an AP1, its Mr .002 himself!
[/quote]

I you James

For anyone interested too... you should buy Yom's AP1!! It's famous because A) James Yom has driven it and B) It is on the worldwide tire rack commerical!! Own a piece of history!!! (Barret Jackson re-sale in 20 years....)

 

I'm also surprised nobody has tried this yet, but it's not quite as simple as chopping down an AP2 rear. If you just pull an inch out of the center of an AP2 rear, you end up with a +52 offset (somebody correct my math if it's wrong). So you'd need to shave 6mm off the mating surface to make it legal (+58mm) which isn't really safe.

The closest thing to a legal wheel I've found is an accord or TSX 17x7.5 +55. You could probably get away with shaving 3mm off those. They're ugly boat anchors, but they'd work.

Thinking out loud... Adding a half-inch to an AP2 front might actually be the best solution because you'd end up with +61. Can wheel shops add width as easily as they can take it away?