Back from SCCA School
I'd like to see pics and a list of the setup you guys are running. For that matter, I think it would be a great idea for all of the racers to post up pics and any info that they feel comfortable sharing about their cars' setup (suspension, electronics, alignment, aero, etc). I'd initiate, but my race car is not built yet
My car is running...
KW's V2 2 way adjust
4 rear AP1 wheels with hankook z214's 245 all the way around
no rear sway bar stock front
comptech intake
megen header (for the time)
free exhaust from blackey really quiet
stock electronics
no aero
lame alignment will be 4 deg front and 3 rear if all goes well (or something like that)
koyo radiator
samco hoses
carbotech pads xp12's I think may be xp10's stock centric rotors
that is all I can think of
as for pictures I have NONE.
KW's V2 2 way adjust
4 rear AP1 wheels with hankook z214's 245 all the way around
no rear sway bar stock front
comptech intake
megen header (for the time)
free exhaust from blackey really quiet
stock electronics
no aero
lame alignment will be 4 deg front and 3 rear if all goes well (or something like that)
koyo radiator
samco hoses
carbotech pads xp12's I think may be xp10's stock centric rotors
that is all I can think of
as for pictures I have NONE.
Originally Posted by crashtest,Mar 5 2007, 02:45 PM
My car is running...
KW's V2 2 way adjust
4 rear AP1 wheels with hankook z214's 245 all the way around
no rear sway bar stock front
comptech intake
megen header (for the time)
free exhaust from blackey really quiet
stock electronics
no aero
lame alignment will be 4 deg front and 3 rear if all goes well (or something like that)
koyo radiator
samco hoses
carbotech pads xp12's I think may be xp10's stock centric rotors
that is all I can think of
as for pictures I have NONE.
KW's V2 2 way adjust
4 rear AP1 wheels with hankook z214's 245 all the way around
no rear sway bar stock front
comptech intake
megen header (for the time)
free exhaust from blackey really quiet
stock electronics
no aero
lame alignment will be 4 deg front and 3 rear if all goes well (or something like that)
koyo radiator
samco hoses
carbotech pads xp12's I think may be xp10's stock centric rotors
that is all I can think of
as for pictures I have NONE.
Thanks for the info. This way we can have in our heads what people are running, and questions regarding setup can be better directed.
Hi guys, I'm only now starting to see straight after all the driving/racing from this weekend.
Luck was definetly with all of us this weekend. From absolutely beautifull weather to spare parts, awesome instructors and very generous offers of help in times of need. Even with all that happened i dont think it could have gone much better than it did.
I hadnt realized the hubs were that old. That, and the fact i tend to use the burms aggressively at times likely resulted in the failure. It should be noted that the hub broke upon hitting the exit burm leading onto the front straight at TH.
I'll tell you, i cant wait to get to Sears Point. Just a few more things to get straightened out with the car and i'll be set.
BTW, the repair took 2+ hours to complete, but that included removing the assembly from the intact rear subframe. Otherwise, you are looking at 1.5 hours or less to repair. From now on the plan is to keep a left and right rear assembly as an easy swap repair option incase something breaks again. Its so simple and doesnt require that you re-align the car after the repair. With the assembly containing the upper and lower a-arms, knuckle and axle all assembled ready to bolt on, the only thing you need to be careful about is marking the camber eccentric so you get it back to where it was. The already adjusted control arm stays on the car.
Luck was definetly with all of us this weekend. From absolutely beautifull weather to spare parts, awesome instructors and very generous offers of help in times of need. Even with all that happened i dont think it could have gone much better than it did.
I hadnt realized the hubs were that old. That, and the fact i tend to use the burms aggressively at times likely resulted in the failure. It should be noted that the hub broke upon hitting the exit burm leading onto the front straight at TH.
I'll tell you, i cant wait to get to Sears Point. Just a few more things to get straightened out with the car and i'll be set.
BTW, the repair took 2+ hours to complete, but that included removing the assembly from the intact rear subframe. Otherwise, you are looking at 1.5 hours or less to repair. From now on the plan is to keep a left and right rear assembly as an easy swap repair option incase something breaks again. Its so simple and doesnt require that you re-align the car after the repair. With the assembly containing the upper and lower a-arms, knuckle and axle all assembled ready to bolt on, the only thing you need to be careful about is marking the camber eccentric so you get it back to where it was. The already adjusted control arm stays on the car.
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