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Best BBK for HPDE & 17x9 Square Setup

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Old 05-29-2017, 10:06 AM
  #31  

 
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For what it's worth I run stock rotors and calipers with raysbestos ST-47 pads. Tracking the car at a fairly high level (Time Trials, with Hoosiers) and with front brake ducts my front pads last me 10 days and rotors last me 3-4 days. I have never had to change my rear pads (I use raysbestos ST 43 pads on the rear) or rear rotors in the 3 years I have been tracking....

Rotors for the front (made by centric)are only $50 each so no big deal to have spares on hand. Stay away from slotted or drilled rotors-they only encourage the formation of cracks. For your needs I would definitely stick with the stock setup.

Last edited by Snowmants; 05-29-2017 at 10:09 AM.
Old 05-29-2017, 10:23 AM
  #32  

 
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I think a lot of it comes down to what tracks you run and what your driving style is.
Old 05-29-2017, 10:36 AM
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Also I used to have the wilwood BBK kit and had issues with it so went back to stock. My dad who also tracks his s2000 heavily had the Racing Brakes BBK and went back to stock too after having issues with their kit...neither of us have had problems with OEM
Old 05-30-2017, 12:02 PM
  #34  

 
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Originally Posted by gptoyz
So back in 07 I was at buttonwillow fleshing out my GSXR1000 shaking down my new setup with ohlins superbike forks, I had some ducted front, vented front fender and Brembo GP monobloc calipers with Axxis Carbon Fiber Rotors. I forgot what level of brake pad I bought but suffice it to say, it was really expensive. Coming down the front straight for my first "hot" lap I grabbed the brakes and the bike wasn't stopping. I squeezed harder, but I wasn't going to make turn 1. One of the age old adages of racing is "Wait till you see god, then brake," well I saw him and had brief exchange of expletives, I let off the brakes, stood the bike up and held on for dear life as I time warped from sun rise to cotton corners. Fast forward to the runway or drag strip, instead of dipping the bike in for sweeper, again I was running in way to hot and instead of CW13 like everyone else, I bailed and ran CW1 using mazda star config. Something was seriously wrong, so I came off track and headed straight for my garage and asked one of my friends - way faster than me, to take my bike out and tell me what the hell was wrong. He comes back after spending no more than 5 minutes running 2.75 laps and tells me the problem is my balls aren't big enough. Granted, I wasn't as fast as him, I wasn't a slouch and I could run sub 2s. But my inferior skill level meant that I couldn't get on the gas fast and as hard, which meant I wasn't approaching turns fast enough. I didn't have enough courage to late brake enough which meant the Ohlins SBK fork's anti dive system prevented any weight from shifting to the front, which meant that I was further exacerbating the lack of heat in the brakes. Any heat I was generating, was being evacuated by the Billet Aluminum Monobloc calipers and vented fender. What I needed was a major down grade, I needed standard rotors and pads that would fit my calipers. Racers are a friendly bunch but no one had a set of rotors lying around for Forged Magnesium Marchesinis or pads for my brembos.
I don't see what this has to do with a BBK... if anything this is an argument for a BBK since you can get away with running a milder pad that works at lower temps. the moral of your story is don't get pads that start working at 1000 degrees when you're a noob. Just cause someone gets a BBK doesn't mean they have to get the most aggressive race pads in existence to go with it. I recommend an aggressive street pad or a mild race pad to go along with a BBK for someone newish to lapping days.
Old 05-31-2017, 04:35 AM
  #35  

 
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Originally Posted by warmmilk
I don't see what this has to do with a BBK... if anything this is an argument for a BBK since you can get away with running a milder pad that works at lower temps. the moral of your story is don't get pads that start working at 1000 degrees when you're a noob. Just cause someone gets a BBK doesn't mean they have to get the most aggressive race pads in existence to go with it. I recommend an aggressive street pad or a mild race pad to go along with a BBK for someone newish to lapping days.
Ever see the top gear where James May drives the Renault F1 car? This sounds like that.
TL;DW - He's too scared to go fast enough to get heat in the tires and brakes or actually use the aero, so the car is actually more dangerous and likely to spin or underbrake a corner.
Old 05-31-2017, 09:43 AM
  #36  

 
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Originally Posted by duffman13
Ever see the top gear where James May drives the Renault F1 car? This sounds like that.
TL;DW - He's too scared to go fast enough to get heat in the tires and brakes or actually use the aero, so the car is actually more dangerous and likely to spin or underbrake a corner.
yes, but a BBK doesn't do that, race pads do that (and tires sticky enough to shorten the stopping distance). A BBK with street pads will brake like stock brakes with street pads, the difference being it'll take longer to overheat with the BBK.
Old 06-01-2017, 03:32 PM
  #37  

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Ordered a StopTech ST40 BBK before my first track day in the S2K. I hate spending time changing brakes and getting all dirty regularly, and potentially running into pad issues while I'm on the track. It seems like some people get crazy life out of their pads but here in California where the days are hot, the tracks are real, fast and for racing, the majority of S2Krs appear to be pad swapping every 3 days of HPDEs (300 minutes of track time). At $200 for a pair of fronts + ordering + time spent, I'd rather not deal with it. Track time already requires a ton of maintenance.
Old 06-01-2017, 04:36 PM
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100 minutes of track time is 5 20 minute sessions. Everywhere I've been has run 4 20 minute sessions due to the amount of groups running... who are you with? I'm coming from land of open session trackdays on motorcycles where I easily ran 180-240 minutes per day or three group formats where I saw 6 20 minute sessions. The change is not pleasant.
Old 06-02-2017, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by warmmilk
yes, but a BBK doesn't do that, race pads do that (and tires sticky enough to shorten the stopping distance). A BBK with street pads will brake like stock brakes with street pads, the difference being it'll take longer to overheat with the BBK.
I was talking about the 1000 deg race pad part, not the BBK part.
Old 06-02-2017, 10:40 AM
  #40  

 
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In my own experience, the fronts are ok (just barely) for aggressive track use if ducted and running high temp brake pads. The rears, even with ducting, just don't have enough thermal capacity. The OP only mentioned upgrading the fronts. For the rest of you, what did you choose for the rears? Or did you just leave them stock?
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