Another probably more important aspect of this is...

it will depend on the tires you plan to run and the weight of your car.

Remember, its not the brakes that stop your car, its your tires.

 

Exactly, and yes they do start vibrating before they break.

Yes for $50 its not bad, so it's accurate that they will only go 4-10 track days...

If you're doing endurance racing, a BBK with bigger surface are would be better IMO, but i'm sure you could get by with the stock rotors. But then again, 6-8 hours straight might be more demanding than 4-10 track days.

Personally, if the budget allows (and rules), i'd rather ask less from a BBK than over working the stock system. But for sprint races like Krazik, (and especially rules), the stock system should be fine -which he proves.



Yes tires are the limiting factor in the braking ability of a car, but if the brake system does not have enough bite and resistance to fade, then they cannot maximize the tire under braking.

If your brakes can consistency get the maximum from the tires under braking, then you're tires are the limitation. If your tires are not maximized and cannot ride the edge of lockup/abs, then your braking system needs to be upgraded.

 

of course... if they dont' cool their rotors properly after use that can always cause excess stress w/ warping/cracking. I've seen people crack them after one use by driving it hard on an HPDE day and comming right off the track w/out a cooldown lap and parking the car... 15 minutes later... PING. cracked rotor.

 

Please tell me that you(OP) are not tracking with those HRE's?! And the sub and amp? You've added so much weight(turbo, sound equipment, wheels) that the stock setup might not be enough. Normally, the oem brakes on this car are plenty with ducting, fluid, and pad upgrades even when using r-comps.

 

I have the sound system, it is one 10" sub with an amp. The HREs are my show wheels. I use OEM AP2 wheels currently with Falken Azenis RT615, but I am going to purchase Enkei RPF01 for the track next spring. I want to know what brand of pads to purchase, what brand of rotors to purchase and tire suggestions. I don't really want to go BBK because I am only doing light track events and don't plan on making it a career, but more a fun activity. I used to autocross the car 2-3 times a month now I want to step it up.

General consensus BBK for bling and for prolonged track usage, which I don't plan on doing.

James D.

 

Weight sucks, but also having a turbo is going to increase speeds and thus the energy that the brakes need to absorb.

Basically, what can be said is that stock-or-lighter cars (even with a passenger) with stockish drivetrains do just fine with the OEM brakes (as long as track pads and fluid are used). But that experience is not necessarily valid for forced induction cars.

Then again, very few people have managed to seriously track turbo S2000s. They always burn up something. The heat loads are immense.

 

Not to be Negative Nancy, but the OP is likely to have more pressing issues with engine temperatures than brake temperatures.

I average about 3-5 events out of a set of front rotors, but a good portion of the lapping days I attend permit 3.5-5 hours of track time. I use the carbotech supplied blanks. $30/rotor every 3-5 track days is still cheaper than BBK rotors at $150+/rotor even if you got 15 events out of a set...

 

For those of you that are looking for better prices and more readily available products for BBKs check the link and follow my progress to solve this "overpriced" problem.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...f=107&t=624949