Got some potentially good news. Just got a spacer for the flywheel cover from Canton. Haven't bothered mounting the pan on MY06 all this time because of the known flywheel clearance issue. Hopefully 1/10" is enough to clear it. If not, I can use it as a template to cut out another one and stack them. I'll report back shortly. I'll also be taking oil temps before installing my oil cooler at #gridlife in a couple weeks. I don't believe there's published data on that yet other than a claim from last year's #gridlife.

 

I ordered the Canton pan from Summit Racing for my '06 AP2 with stock block, transmission and flywheel.

The pan came without a drain plug or flywheel plate. After contacting Canton, they sent a plug and plate. The plate didn't fit.

The forward face of the AP2 flywheel is forward of the transmission housing. The plate was designed to mount up to the transmission housing. Putting the plate on as far back at it will go (right up against the flywheel face) leaves about 1/4" gap between the plate and the transmission housing.

I contacted Canton again. They said that they were aware of this problem and would send out a 1/10" spacer to fill the gap between the plate and the transmission. After explaining and sending pictures to Canton, they offered to send four 1/10" spacers that I can stack up to fill the gap.

This would fill the gap, but in doing so moves the plate forward such that it needs to be notched out to clear the oil pan mounting flange and the "V" shaped cut out in the horizontal part of the plate needs to be widened.

I sent Canton the pictures and a detailed description of how the plate needs to be modified to fit my stock '06 AP2.

The plate is made out of about 1/8" steel and I don't have the tools needed modify it. I gave up and sent the pan back. Summit has a great return policy. They send a return postage paid label with your order. They deduct the return shipping charge from your refund. If the return is due to no fault of the customer (like the part doesn't fit the car when the web site says it does) they don't deduct the return shipping.

My pan also had the short A/C bracket mounts noted a couple of posts above. A washer should fill this space nicely and prevent the stress.

 

Finally got around to installing my pan on MY06. Here are my findings:

Good News:
-Fit up was better than expected. I didn't need to modify the pan or A/C compressor bracket
-No leaks due to poor welds, drain bolt washer, or insufficient flatness of the mating surface
-Spacers solve flywheel clearance issue with cover modification

Bad News:
-Dipstick got jammed between antislosh plate and pan wall.

Here are pics to show that the the A/C compressor bosses were not too short so I did not need to add washers.





Here is the slight gap between the A/C compressor and the bracket. I had already bolted the pan down at this point but I believe there might have been enough tolerance in the pan-to-block mounting to shift the pan towards the driver side to eat up this gap. Unfortunately there was not enough space for a shim so I'll need to keep an eye on it.



Here is the modified flywheel cover with the (3) 1/10" spacers required to clear the AP2 stock flywheel. I used a jigsaw to trim the cover and wallowed out the holes so I can reuse the stock bolts.









Lastly, I think I read at least one instance where the dipstick was difficult to remove. I also experienced this but one time, the dipstick wouldn't come out at all. I eventually had to break the plastic handle off so the dipstick can come out the bottom when I drop the pan. There was apparently just enough of a gap between the antislosh plate and the pan wall to let the dipstick slip between and get caught.



To prevent this, butt the antislosh plate up against the driver side pan wall as much as possible as to not allow the dipstick to fit between.

 

good, glad to see that everything basically went okay. My dipstick has occasionally knocked against something as I'm putting it in, but it's never gotten stuck.

 

All this cutting / fitting of the plate, dealing with the A/C bracket not fitting correctly and the dip stick sticking (I had this issue too) was too much for me. See my post a couple of posts up.

I ended up ordering the Moroso baffle with trap doors and had it welded into a new Honda OEM pan. The new OEM pan, Moroso trap door baffle and welding at a local shop cost about the same as the Canton pan. The OEM pan with baffle bolted in place as if it were made for the car.

 

My thoughts exactly. I sold my Canton and did the same.







EDIT: The guy I sold my Canton pan to had to Dremel out the slosh plate to make it fit around the oil pickup. He tried to loosen it and adjust it but he was not able to get enough adjustment to make it fit.

 

^ great workmanship

 

I'm totally with you guys on that. In hindsight, I would have opted for the Moroso and added a couple bungs just like above and call it a day. I tried to sell the canton but couldn't without taking too much of a loss. If it wasn't for the dipstick thing, I would have been completely content with my copy of the Canton because fitup was actually decent and I don't mind modifying aftermarket parts. It was just terrible finding out at the track I couldn't pull my dipstick out to check the oil level, then having to break its handle off (luckily only a $15 part), remove the valve cover to make sure I didn't drop crap into the valve train area, and waste 6.5 qts of fresh oil to do the job all over again after just doing it the week before. Oh well...as long as my motor is better protected.

 

Yeah, that really sucks that it happened at the track (what really sucks is that we have to worry about how much oil our cars burn so we have to check it at the track, huh?).

How come you didn't just save the oil and put it back in?

 

You guys installed an anti slosh plate as well, correct?