S2000 Racing and Competition The S2000 on the track and Solo circuit. Some of the fastest S2000 drivers in the world call this forum home.

CE28N vs CCW Classic

Thread Tools
 
Old 09-13-2006, 07:57 PM
  #81  

 
rlaifatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Encinitas (San Diego), CA
Posts: 4,666
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Yeah, 400 lbs/in too soft for slicks.
Old 09-14-2006, 07:30 AM
  #82  

 
msm_s2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Utah & Bay Area
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I spoke with John and CCW this morning. The new 1pc C14 and the classics are both available in about 2 weeks.

Is ANYone running 18x10 all around? John suggested setting all the wheels up for rear backspace and running a 1 inch spacer up front.
Old 09-14-2006, 08:01 PM
  #83  

 
rlaifatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Encinitas (San Diego), CA
Posts: 4,666
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

You'd have to change to really long studs, and I'd be worried about reliability. But John should know best.
Old 09-14-2006, 08:43 PM
  #84  
Administrator


 
krazik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Santa Cruz, CA, US
Posts: 17,004
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

actually at that thick your spacer would have its own studs and would bolt to the hub. its not a half bad idea.
Old 09-17-2006, 02:20 PM
  #85  

 
msm_s2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Utah & Bay Area
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by blackey,Sep 13 2006, 08:53 PM
John did mine in about two weeks. 400lb springs will not be enough to run really wide tires I think.(rubbing) Could be wrong there, but you might want to look at about double that spring rate. Most hot shoes are in the 700-900 lb range on springs.

I'm running 7 5/8 backspace on the front and 8.5" backspace on the rears. You will need to run -3 to -4 degrees camber in the front and about -3 in the rear to make the 18x10's fit.

Hope that helps.

Bill
I'm maxed out at -2.7 in the rear. Enough or is there something else I can do to get more camber in the rear?

Car is in the shop now to figure out why I'm not able to get more than -2.5 camber up front on the passenger side even though I have the GFL arms.

I'm pretty well convinced that I want to get a new wheel setup. Most likely CCW C14 18x10s. I'm pretty well convinced on the non-staggered 18x10 setup.

Should I go with the spacer up front to allow me to swap wheels all around? Or is it not worth it?

Any recommendations on springs? Any other setup tips? If you don't want to share your cheating bastard tricks with the CA crowd, just shoot me a PM!
Old 09-18-2006, 02:01 PM
  #86  

 
msm_s2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Utah & Bay Area
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by krazik,Sep 14 2006, 09:43 PM
actually at that thick your spacer would have its own studs and would bolt to the hub. its not a half bad idea.
Well, hopefully it's not a bad idea ... I pulled the trigger and ordered the C14 track edition 1 pc wheels today! 18x10 same offset x 4. John is also doing the spacers for the front wheels for me.

Not one of you has a tip on setup for me!? Cheating bastards ... give up some insight!

Fenders up front are going to need to be modified. Should I just have a body shop hack 'em up or are there any aftermarket extended fenders worth looking at?
Old 09-18-2006, 10:14 PM
  #87  

 
blackey's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Vallejo
Posts: 920
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I'm running 18x10's all the way around. What do you want to know?

If you run -4 on the camber (You'll need a-arms) they will most likey clear with only a fender rolling. I can get about -2.8 to -2.9 on the rears.

For what it's worth I run 950 lb fronts and 900 rear. I know others are in similiar rates, and a few are even stiffer now. 400 is way to soft, especially for slicks.

Rollbar is stock in front and none in rear. I also have the GFL bump steer kit.

The GFL camber a-arms should give about -3 up front. If you take off the lock nut on the quick adjuster and screw it all the way down, you should be able to get -4.0 (That's what I have done)

I would look at 285/30/18 as the 275/35/18 are a bit tall. I can really tell the difference in gearing and weight. That being said they corner very well.
Old 09-19-2006, 05:36 AM
  #88  

 
msm_s2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Utah & Bay Area
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Thanks Blackey!

Is there any advantage in keeping my Comptech adjustable bar? If I don't need the adjustability ... I can always use the cash.

For tires, I'm going to run the 250 take off slicks, which I'm told are similar in dimension to the 285/30/18s.
Old 09-19-2006, 06:15 AM
  #89  
Registered User
 
ImportSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 6,869
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by payneinthe,Aug 29 2006, 02:56 PM
Ok, so what is the process for checking for rubbing? Do I need to remove the springs in order to move the suspension through its entire range? I'm hoping to make it this weekend, but I'm pretty sure I'll need some rolling (went w/ 275 on all 4 to see if it could be done...)
I've used my blue masking tape to line the parts of my fenders and liners that I expected to rub to verify it.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ShocK
Wheels and Tires
100
05-29-2009 06:03 PM
Filthy Beast
Wheels and Tires
4
11-10-2005 09:51 AM
gerryk
Wheels and Tires
3
09-30-2004 01:36 PM
TRBOKEV
Wheels and Tires
2
07-20-2004 01:47 PM
kush only
Wheels and Tires
7
06-16-2003 04:27 PM



Quick Reply: CE28N vs CCW Classic



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:18 AM.