[QUOTE]Originally posted by gernby
[B]Wouldn't liquid cooled calipers have to have independant thermostats?

 

They're mostly used on the WRC cars.

 

davepk, have you considered using a recirculating valve? If so, why did you decide against?

I believe that wilwood, outlaw, and sierra offer some sort of recirc system.

http://www.pitstopusa.com/images/REBBRAKER...ECIRCULATOR.jpg

 

Recently someone mentioned to me using the kind of misters they use on racing Semi Trucks. Sounds too nutty to be true, but if they can help slow a semi down. . . . . ?

 

luc has water spray coolers on his trans am car

new system from another vendor....discussion about testing on my car. calipers are red.

 

Dave,

Any news/updates?!?

 

Wow, Its been a while since I thought about updating this thread. I'll do a proper job of it in the near future.

For now just a quick update.

The 12" pinnacle rotors I was running up front are now on the rear along with 4 piston Outlaw 2000 calipers. There are 13" X 1.25" wilwood GT rotors up front with 4 piston Outlaw 4000 calipers.

The OEM master cylinder remains installed but the ABS system has been removed. The OEM Master now runs a front hydraulic circuit and a separate rear hydraulic circuit. The rear circuit has a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve installed that can reduce the rear bias by 57%. I'll be installing a second prop valve to further reduce the rear bias.

I have had this setup running now for a couple of months. Including 2 days at the new Reno/Fernly track 2 days at the streets and one day at Button Willow.

The Rotors and Pads show very little wear and it appears they will last a good long time.

Dave Karner had a chance to try the car at ButtonWillow and mentioned that the brake bias is set quite abit to the rear. Apparently that's just the way he likes it, but I find it a bit of a handfull under very hard braking. That's why I'll shortly be installing a second prop valve in the rear circuit.

With all that extra rear bias its simply amazing just how fast the car now slows down.

Its taking some time to get used to no ABS, I nearly spun into Ry when he spun in front of me at SOW, but I'm now getting to the point that I can control the brakes quite well.

More later...

 

Hey Dave!

Glad to know your brake project is constantly improving.

Yes, driving your car at BW was certainly entertaining. I could turn the car without even steering.

I have a question for you in reference to the ABS system. Do you know if it has 2 independant circuits, or if they are siamesed somewhere?

I'm looking into the possibility of running a twin cyl. combo, but would like to keep the abs. At least on one of the axles.

 

Dave,

I was looking into that as well... As its designed the ABS controller is plumbed as 2 independent diagonal hydraulic circuits.

To keep ABS on the rear only will require that you supply the ABS system with only one of the MC hydraulic circuits with the other operating the front brakes. You would then need to "Tee" the line going to the ABS from the MC so that it feeds both ABS circuit inputs. You will also need to cap off the ABS outputs to the front wheels. I'm unsure how the ABS hydraulics will react to having its output capped when the ABS tries to kick in for a stalled front wheel.

Hmmm maybe I can give this a try. But then it would mean adding the weight of the ABS unit back to the car. I'll think about it...

 

Wow, this thread is pretty old now. I first read this when it was started and completely forgot about it until a friend and I wanted to develop our own kit also and someone referred me to it again.
Dave, any updates? I probably missed anything that may have been restarted in another thread.
Also, in your calculations, you based everything on the hydraulic ratio of the master cylinder to the driven piston area. I never saw any mention of the relationship of front piston area to the rear piston area. I was under the impression that to keep the front to rear bias close to stock, the front piston area would need to be close to the single large piston area if using the stock rear brakes (this would also maintain your hydraulic ratio), or that the new front to rear piston area ratio needed to be the same as the stock front to rear piston area ratio. This may be why you have so much rear bias as the rear piston area is likely considerably larger in relation to the front compared to stock.
If you don't mind my asking, how much did it cost you to have the brackets machined? Where did you get them machined? Would you mind helping me develop a CAD drawing for a bracket for a different rotor size and caliper?
My friend and I are looking at some Alcon calipers (4-pot front and 2-pot rear). The 4-pots are considerably (about 9+mm) thicker than the Outlaws you used, so we'll have wheel backspacing issues, but he's looking to get some Kodiak or other custom wheels anyways.
Thanks.