deleting abs
When I removed mine I put in a SSBC in the orientation to limit rear bias. I started with the valve all the way open and the car already had front bias. Since then I have installed a big brake kit and tires and still with the valve all the way open there is a tiny bit of front bias.
What I don't know is if the SSBC even zerod out has some restriction to the rear.
What I don't know is if the SSBC even zerod out has some restriction to the rear.
If you want to be competitive, I highly suggest keeping your car in the stock class. If you go outside of that (and soon STR) with the S2000, you are doomed to be competitive, unless you have a lot of $$$$, knowledge and/or skills. Honestly, stock is enough to keep me on my toes... could not image trying to play in BSP like Cosmo.
Back on topic... I personally love ABS, as long as it is a good ABS.... which the S2000's seems to be one of those good ones. Every time I go and play in STS with my CRX Si, I soooo miss ABS.
-Dave
Back on topic... I personally love ABS, as long as it is a good ABS.... which the S2000's seems to be one of those good ones. Every time I go and play in STS with my CRX Si, I soooo miss ABS.

-Dave
Keep the ABS but don't abuse it on the track. Try to hit ABS once every couple of laps. If you don't feel ABS once in a while you're probably not braking hard enough. Someday your ABS will probably fail and then you can work on driving with flatspots
There is an argument to be made that ABS can be more dangerous on the track versus not having it. If, er when, you lose control of the car and ABS is engaging your car should continue along the same arc which may end up having you go off course in an area not designed with runoff (i.e. the inside of a turn). Without ABS, you should go off track tangent to your path and into an area usually designed with runoff.
An instructor told me about this a couple years ago and I thought he was over exaggerating. Later that weekend, I spun at 100mph mid-turn, went full on ABS, and hit a concrete wall on the inside of the turn instead of a nice big gravel trap on the outside. That said, I still use ABS on the track because I feel it prevents more locking up incidents to offset the lesser safety in spins.
An instructor told me about this a couple years ago and I thought he was over exaggerating. Later that weekend, I spun at 100mph mid-turn, went full on ABS, and hit a concrete wall on the inside of the turn instead of a nice big gravel trap on the outside. That said, I still use ABS on the track because I feel it prevents more locking up incidents to offset the lesser safety in spins.
I really only see two ways to go here. Either a full race dual master cylinder setup with larger brakes, etc...
or stick with the ABS. I know I'm faster with the ABS than without it on a stock system, and have outbraked a lot of SCCA racers with it. It's a good system. With my s2k I would use it at almost every corner.
Not sure if I would be faster with a dual master cylinder system on the s2k.
or stick with the ABS. I know I'm faster with the ABS than without it on a stock system, and have outbraked a lot of SCCA racers with it. It's a good system. With my s2k I would use it at almost every corner.
Not sure if I would be faster with a dual master cylinder system on the s2k.
I'm working on both.
Floor mounted dual masters with the ABS rewired/replumbed for front rear operation instead of diagonal.
I will have a switch for the option to disable ABS for dry conditions, but still have it for wet.
It would be much easier if there was room to move the seat back further and use a conventional pedal box, instead I'm now working with pull type masters.
I am wondering though if all this added cost and effort is really worth while.
I found the stock brake balance with ABS trail braked well and performed well and that the ABS wasn't very intrusive even in the dry.
I suspect the pedal box I'm looking at making may save 1 to 2 lb but I'm not convinced it is going to make the car any faster.
I'd appreciate any input, anyone using a pivoting type dual master system on their S2?
I've found with the large masters and low pedal ratio you typically run on a boosted setup that knock back is barely perceivable, wheras with a race box and smaller masters, minor hub deflection has a large impact on pedal travel and braking consistency. Perhaps the best option might be just to run the OE pedal/master/ABS and make sure caliper piston sizing is tuned correctly to maintain brake balance and ABS performance...
Floor mounted dual masters with the ABS rewired/replumbed for front rear operation instead of diagonal.
I will have a switch for the option to disable ABS for dry conditions, but still have it for wet.
It would be much easier if there was room to move the seat back further and use a conventional pedal box, instead I'm now working with pull type masters.
I am wondering though if all this added cost and effort is really worth while.
I found the stock brake balance with ABS trail braked well and performed well and that the ABS wasn't very intrusive even in the dry.
I suspect the pedal box I'm looking at making may save 1 to 2 lb but I'm not convinced it is going to make the car any faster.
I'd appreciate any input, anyone using a pivoting type dual master system on their S2?
I've found with the large masters and low pedal ratio you typically run on a boosted setup that knock back is barely perceivable, wheras with a race box and smaller masters, minor hub deflection has a large impact on pedal travel and braking consistency. Perhaps the best option might be just to run the OE pedal/master/ABS and make sure caliper piston sizing is tuned correctly to maintain brake balance and ABS performance...
perhaps replacing the stock prop valve for the rear brakes with this while maintaining ABS could be the most straight forward solution to having bias control and ABS.
http://www.apracing.com/info/products.asp?...0%2D1_1244_1241
http://www.apracing.com/info/products.asp?...0%2D1_1244_1241
Originally Posted by Billj747,Sep 22 2009, 11:52 PM
I'm not sure about the S2000 because i've never pulled the fuse to see the brake balance, but most new cars have far too much rear brake bias and rely on the ABS system to stop the car under control.
With more rear line pressure from a high rear bias, modern ABS systems are able to slow the car better. But this means that if you disable the ABS, the rears will lock first and that makes for a dangerous car to drive. Off the top of my head, cars with this known balance are: all new BMWs, new MX5 Miata, all new Porsches, Chevy Cobalts, and many more.
0.02
With more rear line pressure from a high rear bias, modern ABS systems are able to slow the car better. But this means that if you disable the ABS, the rears will lock first and that makes for a dangerous car to drive. Off the top of my head, cars with this known balance are: all new BMWs, new MX5 Miata, all new Porsches, Chevy Cobalts, and many more.
0.02
I think the 05 and earlier S2k's won't have the rear bias issue with ABS turned off because they still use a prop valve. But I suspect the newer ones with brake assist and the other functions have gone to full ABS control much like the other cars you've mentioned.
Andrew








