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Ground Control coil-overs installed

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Old Apr 13, 2004 | 09:54 PM
  #91  
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You care to clarify in more details the "wedge any long bar into upper A-arm"? I just don't want to break anything.

Thanks!
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Old Apr 13, 2004 | 09:58 PM
  #92  
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- mount the rear wheel
- engage the parking brake
- take the scissor jack from the trunk and place it between the top of the tire and the ceiling of the wheel well
- expand the jack to push the rear suspension down until the holes line up
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Old Apr 13, 2004 | 10:15 PM
  #93  
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Icee, I just tried your method and it didn't work for me.

I used the metal handle of a 2 1/4 ton jack (small one not the heavy duty one) and wedge into the upper a arm like you said but didn't work. I guess I'm afraid to put too much force behind it as I'm thinking the a arm may break where the bar is wedge. It'll probably work if I had someone else to help insert the bolt. Any other ideas?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by iCEE
try this...

get any long bar... wedge it in the upper a arm, so you can leverage the rear assembly...
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Old Apr 13, 2004 | 10:19 PM
  #94  
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Donut, these steps seems pretty good but I have a question.

I'm assumming you place the scissor jack as if it was on the floor (base on the wheel and top part against the ceiling of the wheel well, correct? My question is, is the wheel well solid? Would the top of the jack pucture the wheel well as I'm expanding the jack? Sorry, if that was a stupid question but I don't want to damage the car.

Thanks!

Originally posted by Donut
- mount the rear wheel
- engage the parking brake
- take the scissor jack from the trunk and place it between the top of the tire and the ceiling of the wheel well
- expand the jack to push the rear suspension down until the holes line up
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Old Apr 13, 2004 | 10:32 PM
  #95  
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yes, the ceiling of the wheel well is solid and will withstand the moderate amount of force needed to push the suspension down. You could place a small piece of wood or even a folded rag between the top of the jack and wheel well so you don't mar the undercoating.

I used this method to install konis with stock springs, but since you have adjustable spring perches, couldn't you lower the perch enough to compress the shock to fit instead of trying to move the suspension?
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 01:25 AM
  #96  
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Disconnect the rear swaybar endlinks.
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 03:26 AM
  #97  
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Originally posted by cthree
Disconnect the rear swaybar endlinks.
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 06:26 AM
  #98  
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Donut, I will try your method later this evening when I get home. Someone also suggested that I jack up the shock to align the holes. I'm assumming they're talking about jacking one side of the shock flange that has the hole as it sits over the lower A-arm.

Anyhow, I also tried turning the spring perch all the way to the bottom where the springs are no longer a factor, but I'm unable to push the shock up with just my hands.

I will let you know how it went later today.

Thanks!

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Donut
yes, the ceiling of the wheel well is solid and will withstand the moderate amount of force needed to push the suspension down.
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 06:29 AM
  #99  
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Some members have posted that this is an option, but it's a pain to reconnect it later on. Is this true? How difficult is it compare to re-inserting the bottom bolt of the rear shock as I'm trying to do?

Well I'm going to try all these different methods and hopefully I'll be successful with one of them.

Thanks all!

Originally posted by cthree
Disconnect the rear swaybar endlinks.
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Old Apr 14, 2004 | 10:17 AM
  #100  
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I use the scissor jack method many times like Donut described, but between the upper A-arm and the top of the wheel well, with a couple pieces of 2/4 on top as spacers. Not the safest way but works easily.
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