Guys, chill out.

I think for $400 bucks. GC is a good deal. But overall, you can not compare a set of adj. springs on stock shocks to TEINs and Zeals. They're just different in different classes of suspension
setups.

As I was saying, if you plan to change the shocks, you might as well just get full coilover TEIN or Zeal instead of buying GC/Koni combo since the price is not much different.

Before my S2000, my friends and I all drive Civics/Integras/Preludes, I use to run Eibach Springs on stock
shocks and thinking it's all cool. But after I moved up to
GC/Tokico shocks, we think it was the shit. Back in '98, when
I was first introduced to TEIN, I got a set for my Prelude (TEIN HA
with pillow ball mounts), and it was a world of difference! After that, I never "downgrade" to springs/shocks setups.

My friends (who all run TEIN/Zeal setups now) were just saying
a while ago, "hey, remember those old days when we use
to run Ground Controls and Tokico shocks?" I started laughing 'cuz I know my TEIN I had on my Prelude and the Zeal
I have right now on my S2000 is way better than Ground Controls with or without shocks (Koni, KYB, Tokico..etc.)

Don't knock on JDMs2000 'cuz his car is the shiet. =)

 

Can the GCs be gotten in more down to earth (i.e. less attention getting) colors and can they be adjusted to stock ride height?

Pierre

 

GC uses Eibach springs, and they come in red. I think that's more due to Eibach than GC. The perches are anodized. But worry not. They are practically invisible with the wheels on and pretty low key even with the wheels off. And the adjustable perches allow adjustment +/- from stock ride height. Mine is pretty close to stock, dropped slightly.

I continue to really enjoy the GC setup, both at track days and on the street. IMHO, it is the real deal. A well engineered product that can significantly can improve the handling of the S2000 at an extremely reasonable cost.

Do I think the addition of Koni's or the Advance Design shocks would improve it even more? Absolutely. Do I think a high end coil-over setup would be as good or better? Yes.

Do I think a lower end Tein/Zeal/etc. setup would outperform them? Quite honestly, I'm very doubtful of that, but as I've never tried them, I'll withhold final judgement. But I do know what works for me, with my driving style, on my roads and my local tracks, and the GC fits the bill.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by WRS2K
[B]Stick to your heavy rims with incorrect offsets and your ricer body kits on the island.

 

Since the stock car is underdamped, am I right in thinking one reason GC recommends spring rates higher than stock is to compensate for the fact GC "coilovers" with stock spring rates would travel less before the coils bind (being shorter) than OEMs, or is this not an issue?

Pierre

 

It looks like you're using stock shocks. Did you have them revalved? The reason I'm asking is I want higher spring rates then what you've listed here. What's the max spring rates the stock shocks can handle?

thanks,
dt

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by desert tortoise
[B]It looks like you're using stock shocks.

 

bump, as another track day confirms that this setup is a *great* solution for a reasonable cost...

Though the stock shocks now notably need replacement. Perhaps Koni yellow's.

 

I'm currently in the process of installing the Ground Control coil-overs over my stock shocks. I've managed to finish the fronts; however, I'm having trouble with the rears. I'm unable to re-install the single bolt that goes into the bottom of the shock & lower A-arm.

From reading various posts, if you have a helper, they're to step on the rotor while you manipulate the bolt back in; whereas, if you're working alone, some have suggested using a crowbar. I'm working alone and I do not have access to a crowbar.

Is it nearly impossible to do this by yourself and without a crowbar of some sort? Can anyone give me a few pointers as I'm currently stuck.

BTW, I've tried stepping on the rotor myself, but am unable to wiggle the bolt in.

Thanks in advance!

 

try this...

get any long bar... wedge it in the upper a arm, so you can leverage the rear assembly... carefully push down... it's worked for me.

i probably didn't explain it well enough