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I had a 5/8 - 11 nut welded on the front of the crash beam dead center. There is a support inside that bean that was notched and welded into place as well.
so... I'm bringing this up after over 2 years instead of starting a new topic. It seems like there is no one best way of towing a car.
I have a set of Mac's Pro Pack, the one that goes through the wheel, per recommendation of the guy in Mac's tech support. They said it'd be the best way to secure the car (btw, it's their most expensive kit ...but it's quality stuff). I asked about the alignment issue from the wheels being pulled on and he said that the car is exposed to much greater loads at the track, so it won't be an issue. Also, I asked them about the holes in the frame for the t/r hooks and he said it's a bad idea, as over time the metal will start ripping. Also, they were against crossing, which in my case sucks because my trailer is only 16' long, so it's difficult not to cross.
...so, now, after 2-3 years of towing since the last post, did any of your opinions change?
I'll just repeat my suggestion again on every page of the thread =)
If you tow more than once a year, weld loops to your subframes. Never had a strap become even a little bit loose after towing and so easy to secure everything.
I have a 16' trailer with d rings welded about 6" off center front and back. This allows me hook it up without crossing the straps. I use r hooks on the front in the oem tie down holes. In the rear my brake ducts block access to the oem locations so installed 2 of the rennline 45 degree tie down brackets to the rear subframe bolts and use snap hooks to those. And snap hooks to all 4 trailer rings. If you have an oem exhaust you won't be able to use the 45 degree brackets in that spot though.
cracknut and ndogg can you guys post pictures of your setups; majority of the pictures in this thread doesn't work anymore.
cracknut, are any of the welds show signs of cracking?
...and finally, is it better to have the car strapped by the wheels and let the car suspension "travel" when hitting bumps, or is it better to have it somewhat compressed and rigid on the trailer when strapping using the frame? Pros and cons of both schools of thought?
I've been towing 7k-10k miles per year for the last three years, using r hooks in the frame holes. It works great. The holes are completely undamaged and no wear on anything on the car that I'm aware of. Welding loops would save maybe one minute or so total when strapping down the car but other than that there's really no reason to consider anything else.
Also, I have my front straps straight and rears crossed. I do this so that the rear straps don't rub against the trailer, although that worked too just with some premature wearing of the straps due to where the rings are on the trailer. Again, works great. I wouldn't feel comfortable crossing both sets of straps (although even that may work) but if one set is straight you should be able to do whatever with the other.
I spoke with Mac's again and they said not to cross the straps in the back. The reason for that is that straps are rated based on load in a straight line; if the strap is on an angle it's strength is greatly reduced, which is dangerous in a collision where the strap fails and the car moves forward into the towing vehicle, plus possible wear from the straps rubbing against each other.
I spoke with Mac's again and they said not to cross the straps in the back. The reason for that is that straps are rated based on load in a straight line; if the strap is on an angle it's strength is greatly reduced, which is dangerous in a collision where the strap fails and the car moves forward into the towing vehicle, plus possible wear from the straps rubbing against each other.
Just put a cover where they cross (I actually have one on each strap but just one would probably work). They have made it so they don't wear at all.
In terms of crossing the rear, I guess it matters some how long the trailer is. Mine is an 18 foot trailer with the car near the front, so even though the straps are crossed they are still not very far off from being a straight line. I'd estimate a 10 degree, maybe 15, angle off the top of my head.
I guess I've never crashed so what they're saying could still be true, but intuitively it seems better then putting them straight which cuts into the tire and rubs the strap against the trailer.
I've been using the Mac's stuff through my wheels as well. Seems to work fine for me.
Originally Posted by cracknut
I'll just repeat my suggestion again on every page of the thread =)
If you tow more than once a year, weld loops to your subframes. Never had a strap become even a little bit loose after towing and so easy to secure everything.
Everything else is debatable.
I thought about doing that... But then I thought about some of the offs I've had at the track and how some hooks might not be a good thing.
04-11-2013, 07:48 AM
...but it's quality stuff). I asked about the alignment issue from the wheels being pulled on and he said that the car is exposed to much greater loads at the track, so it won't be an issue. Also, I asked them about the holes in the frame for the t/r hooks and he said it's a bad idea, as over time the metal will start ripping. Also, they were against crossing, which in my case sucks because my trailer is only 16' long, so it's difficult not to cross. 
