How to strap down the s2000 on a flat bed
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Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Fort Walton Beach, FL
In some states I believe that crossing the straps is required. I have been towing my S2000 or SpecE30 with crossed straps for 5 years now with no issues. I use the Macs R hooks in the frame currently, and I haven't noticed any wear. I have big D rings at the corners of my 16 foot trailer so crossing is the only option.
Joined: Jul 2013
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I use the T-hooks in the body holes. It works perfect, no damage to the body what so ever. I cross both straps, but the d-rings in the rear are further away from the car. So the "X" is very tall if that makes sense. Its true the straps take on more load if crossed than straight, but crossing them gives lateral stability. I would cross both or cross the front only. It depends on the trailer, if you can cross the rear with the angle being shallow (straps close to straight) that would be preferred. If the rear straps can only be crossed being more perpendicular to the car, I would say leave them straight.
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Joined: Sep 2014
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so... I'm bringing this up after over 2 years instead of starting a new topic. It seems like there is no one best way of towing a car.
I have a set of Mac's Pro Pack, the one that goes through the wheel, per recommendation of the guy in Mac's tech support. They said it'd be the best way to secure the car (btw, it's their most expensive kit
...but it's quality stuff). I asked about the alignment issue from the wheels being pulled on and he said that the car is exposed to much greater loads at the track, so it won't be an issue. Also, I asked them about the holes in the frame for the t/r hooks and he said it's a bad idea, as over time the metal will start ripping. Also, they were against crossing, which in my case sucks because my trailer is only 16' long, so it's difficult not to cross.
...so, now, after 2-3 years of towing since the last post, did any of your opinions change?
I have a set of Mac's Pro Pack, the one that goes through the wheel, per recommendation of the guy in Mac's tech support. They said it'd be the best way to secure the car (btw, it's their most expensive kit
...but it's quality stuff). I asked about the alignment issue from the wheels being pulled on and he said that the car is exposed to much greater loads at the track, so it won't be an issue. Also, I asked them about the holes in the frame for the t/r hooks and he said it's a bad idea, as over time the metal will start ripping. Also, they were against crossing, which in my case sucks because my trailer is only 16' long, so it's difficult not to cross. ...so, now, after 2-3 years of towing since the last post, did any of your opinions change?
I still don't like the practice of through the wheel type straps, personally. The alignment thing gets thrown out there, but it also allows the car to move on the springs, rather than using the spring to keep the car stable. That's one of the primary reasons why manufacturers use tie downs that go to the frame for shipping...speaking of which, the comment about "metal ripping" if using J or T hooks to frame locations designed for that use is just crazy. They are designed specifically for that use, which may include being on transport ships in heavy seas, rail cars etc. It also pulls the car into the springs, a bit, which allows less movement/acceleration of force in unstable conditions, like hard braking or impact.
On crossing tie downs, I still use the X method front and rear. The tie down straps I use are rated so far in excess of the weight of the vehicle being tied down, I'm not concerned with any load related failure and I like the better control of the car's weight laterally. I can see doing the rear straps uncrossed, as that could be helpful in a vertical collision, i.e. running directly into something that doesn't yield.
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Long Beach
I think I'm going to try those tie down brackets in the rear. Where are people welding brackets for the front? Also with all this cross straps talk, why not run a couple more straps and tie down the sides as well?