could anyone out there please lend some helpfull advice .I had installed my jic magic coilover's on my s2 yesterday afternoon only to find out that the front coils only allowed about 1'' of travel and the rears were riding on the bump stop's tried to pre load the spring's to get the optimal travel but know luck consulted the shop were I bought them from they claim this is proper fitment but let's not be realistic here the stock susupesion would ultimately swallow this up on the street and track so I would need any helpfull info on how to remedy my problem helppppppp!!!!!!.

 

Shucks that's a long read *gasping for air* Why not call your JIC dealer?

 

Got pics? I have mine adjusted so that when there's no load on the units (ie, coilover is not installed) the collar is simply snug with the spring. Then I adjust the bottom mount part to get ride-height adjustment.

 

Did you adjust the ride height (not the spring preload) before you installed them?

You are just supposed to adjust the spring perch so the springs are just lightly touching no preload, all other adjustments are done with the lower end of the damper.

George

 

Sounds like an installation issue. here is a cut and paste of instructions I wrote:


JIC Magic S2000 (AP1) FLT-A2 coilover install notes

These are just my notes based upon a failed translation of the Japanese instructions, a brief conversation with the distributor, and my successful installation. This may not be absolutely the best procedure but given the instructions and advice available I promise this can save many hours compared to some bum tips offered. cdelena 12/2002

1) Do plan what you will do to secure front brake lines, as these units (as most adjustable body units) do not have mounts for the lines. Front brake lines are long enough to handle suspension travel and steering movement so they are too long to hang free. I built some mounts patterned after the stock units from aluminum (with plastic backing to avoid scratching the body) that are secured with zip (cable) ties. I routed my lines behind the shock body rather than in front like stock.
2) The distributor recommended that shock damping should always be adjusted by backing off to zero (counter-clockwise) and then turning to the level of damping desired (clockwise). Just set all units to level two until installation is complete.
3) When measuring body height I always measure from the bottom lip of the wheel to the painted portion of the fender arch. This technique eliminates the need for a level surface or perfect tire pressure. Measure and note each corner before starting so you know your stock level.
4) A Helm manual is recommended so that you have pictures of how all parts fit together and the proper torque values. I do not pop the ball joint to remove the front as recommended in the manual but instead remove the bolts holding the upper A-frame. Since the sway bars will pressure one side from the other I make sure I have both wheels off the ground when working on either side.
5) I did one unit at a time. After removing each I measured the distance from the top surface of the top mounting base (black rubber thing that incorporates the top studs) to the bottom mounting hole to determine the length. I adjusted the length of the new unit to be about a quarter in shorter (you will have to adjust again so don

 

cdelenas instructions were very helpful for my jic install. i noticed the same limited travel issues you mentioned,but they weren't a problem on the front. a loud "clunk" coming from the rear over sharp bumps and hard cornering was cured by adding preload. the distributer said up to 1/4" is acceptable. i solved my "clunk" issues by dialing in 1/8" very firm ride on softest damping setting, 1" lower than stock and alignment numbers attainable.

 

I am having the same Clunk issues..however from the front. I added a good amount of preload by hand (didnt measure though).

Should I add more preload untill the clunk goes away??

Other than the clunk I am happy, but this Clunk is annoying

George

 

The clunking sound could be a spring with slack, but adding preload raises corner height and can increase harshness. I would insure the spring is secured without a lot of preload and check that the mounts and locking rings are tight. If you didn't torque the suspension when under load I would back it all off a little and do it now. If it still clunks and you are sure it is not another corner, it will take more detective work, but just cranking up the perch is probably not the answer.

 

Are you telling me you get zero clunking with the spring just touching the perch at full (no load) droop?


I did torque the suspension under load.

Then after the first ride did it again to make sure. The rear had a clunk too but a little preload fixed it.

I had had the car up on jack stands about 5 times now...

One thing I noticed is the stock bolt that attaches damper to the lower control arm is sticks out about an inch on the JIC damper when fully tightened. It is possible I am bottoming the bolt out (it's not fully threaded)?

George