Not sure what this means. Mine's tool in and turn the tool 540 degrees. Then again, mine's the newer version which goes by "clicks" but 540 degrees is close to it.

 

Its always safer to use degrees compression has 720 available I usually shoot for the 360 degree position up front and adjust ride hight by increasing SPRING PRE-LOAD (did I just shout that?) to keep the front from bottoming out on the worst corner/transition. then you can adjust the rear compression to softer if the car's too loose or firmer if the car's too tight. rebound has 3 full turns or 1080 degrees. I set the front a bit "faster" = valve more open than the rear as it helps preserve ride height mid corner and helps the car take a set faster after entry. Slow rear rebound = valve more closed, helps the car transfer weight quicker under braking and promotes a settled power on exit. Too fast a rebound is usually noticed by the driver as a twitchy or nervous end of the car (yes the whole car can be twitchy too).

 

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=m...img=503368&md=1


the pdf instructions and your instructions are a little

it seems only 1/2 turns are possible.

where i'm getting confused is...if you are counting these 1/2 turns as 1 turn or if you mean 1 turn is 360 degrees i'm lost

 

I see where you're getting confused. If you put paint on one of the pin holes, when it makes a full turn all the way around, that's 360 degrees. Does that make sense?

 

gotcha

that makes things a little easier

 

each full sweep of the window is 90 degrees.. this makes it even easier

 

This is interesting.

I've had the opposite experience with the front rebound set "faster" or softer compared to the rear rebound (with the same compression setting front and rear).

That happended on my first track day with the KWs when I inadvertently switched the recommeded rebound settings between the front and back when I installed them - i.e. I had the front rebound "faster" or softer compared to the rear.

The car felt really twitchy under braking, especially when trail braking. I realized that I had switched the rebound settings after about three sessions when I decided to tighten up the rebound settings. I then switched the rebound settings between front and rear (front "slower" or stiffer than the rear), and the car handled so much better. The car no longer twitched under straight-line or trail braking.

 

Personally I just like setting up my dampers 'faster'.

Hey, who here likes to go slow?





lol

 

I'm no suspension tech so help me understand here, I might be way off with this.....

If you take into consideration that a tire coming off the ground can also be caused by an overly stiff sway bar on either end, or a floppy chassis, in our case its the sway bars.(You admit to having to remove your rear sway) Couldn't you have tuned that out with preload without removing the sway? Seems to me that preloading the spring that simultaneously raises the car is going to induce more roll from a higher center of gravity. Then you have to stiffen the compression dampening to compensate for roll, which in turn is going to further your problems and limit the amount of camber you can use effectively because the compression dampening is too slow and causes the inside of the tire to get heated fast. Or you have to add more preload to keep roll from being induced but the higher you go the more your fighting the higher center of gravity, especially with a soft spring, not to mention all that air that will be making its way under the car. I would think that having ride height independent would be much easier to tune and lower your center of gravity without effecting the above factors and be better in the end.

My cheap coilovers have preload adjustment, they also have 2 inches of droop which are pretty close to KW's from what my buddy tells me who owns them. I had a set of TEIN Super Streets on my celica which were not ride height independent, kinda sux IMO when you have to jack the car up to make it handle the way you want. It only had about two inches of droop and I placed 2nd the last season I raced it, 3rd the season before and never placed lower than 5th in the 3 years I had the car. I played more with dampening and sway bar settings than with my preload and trust me I had the car pretty low, tucking the tires.

I think there are plenty of other things you can do to keep the wheels on the ground, and I also think there are plenty other things to worry about, but I race on street tires so for me I have to worry more about how to get traction than packing a tire. More than 2 inches of droop seems like too much to me. Although I have hopped the car with the new suspension. Sorry for the rant I'm still learning about this stuff, I'm just curious

 

Their's a lot of bad information, misinterpretation, and incorrect labeling of damping effect going on in this thread...

Take most advice with a grain of salt.

0.02