When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Originally Posted by mikegarrison,Jun 7 2007, 02:30 PM
Dude, it was raining. Why swap rotors out in a paddock in the rain with hand tools when you can do it in your garage with air tools instead?
As for the DIY, it is really quite simple.
1) Remove the caliper by removing its 2 mounting bolts (17mm front, 14mm rear)
2) Remove the 2 Phillips head screws located in the wheel stud area of each rotor. If you are doing this the first time, an impact driver might be needed to get these screws out.
3) Remove and replace rotor.
Per a suggestion, I did not replace the screws when I put the new rotors on. What are other people's thoughts on this practice?
Originally Posted by tinkfist,Jun 7 2007, 03:08 PM
Per a suggestion, I did not replace the screws when I put the new rotors on. What are other people's thoughts on this practice?
not sure what they're for, but it's just two screws so i just put them back. as for DIY, you can find the ap1 service manual at http://carfiche.com/manuals021/cars/ . . . some times. it has all of the torque specs.
I keep the screws, but with some antiseize and just barely snug just to hold the rotor in position so not loose when installing the caliper and pads. Once done like this they are easy to remove each time (add antiseize each time).
Just so this topic is officially beaten to death...
The photo I posted above is "before;" I was able to use that rotor for, uh, exactly one more track session. Here is "after:"
Yes, I just run 'em till they break.
Note the impact screwdriver: use it with a small sledge to loosen the screws. I replace them too, but without antiseize; instead I just carry my sledge and impact driver in my toolbox (and a spare set of rotors in the trunk!).
Here is "after:"
