SPC Adjustable Ball Joint Install How-To
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 10,465
Likes: 52
From: ATL
Originally Posted by Turn-R-Us,Nov 18 2007, 10:57 PM
Just got done installing the SPC joint. I figured a simple way to help the joint from slipping.
Once the #2 bottom plate is pressed in the way it should be. Do everything that you are supposed to however, instead of setting the #1 plate (top plate) parallel to the bottom (pressed in plate) place it perpendicular. By doing this you get max neg camber and it prevents the SPC from sliding. The downside to this is you cant really adjust the camber from the SPC, you are stuck with max neg......so have to use your stock adjusters to change your camber.
Thought that might help.
Once the #2 bottom plate is pressed in the way it should be. Do everything that you are supposed to however, instead of setting the #1 plate (top plate) parallel to the bottom (pressed in plate) place it perpendicular. By doing this you get max neg camber and it prevents the SPC from sliding. The downside to this is you cant really adjust the camber from the SPC, you are stuck with max neg......so have to use your stock adjusters to change your camber.
Thought that might help.
Anyone in the Mid-A area have the tools needed to press out the ball joint and in the new one?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
Hey guys, I just put these in to the front of my MY '00 with the intent to get max negative camber in the front.
I pressed-in the slotted plates a close to perfectly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis as possible without verification with a protractor, and had an odd problem.
When putting the ball-joint into the slotted plate in the direction for neg camber, and then trying to slide it as far inboard as possible, the ball joint interferes with the thickened part of the control arm before it reaches even close to the end of the slot for adjustment.
Does anyone here have any insight into this?
I spoke with Engineering at SPC, we confirmed that I'm using the right part #, seem to be (I don't have pics) putting the in the right way for what I want, and that this isn't some issue of multi-model common parts (like that plate is common amongst model cars and on some of them I'd get all the way to the end of the slot).
I pressed-in the slotted plates a close to perfectly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis as possible without verification with a protractor, and had an odd problem.
When putting the ball-joint into the slotted plate in the direction for neg camber, and then trying to slide it as far inboard as possible, the ball joint interferes with the thickened part of the control arm before it reaches even close to the end of the slot for adjustment.
Does anyone here have any insight into this?
I spoke with Engineering at SPC, we confirmed that I'm using the right part #, seem to be (I don't have pics) putting the in the right way for what I want, and that this isn't some issue of multi-model common parts (like that plate is common amongst model cars and on some of them I'd get all the way to the end of the slot).
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
Bump!
Okay, has nobody had problems like mine getting max camber, or are most people using these to lessen camber for lowered cars?
Talking to an engineer at SPC, the typical usage is the latter.
Bueller....Bueller....
Okay, has nobody had problems like mine getting max camber, or are most people using these to lessen camber for lowered cars?
Talking to an engineer at SPC, the typical usage is the latter.
Bueller....Bueller....
Former Sponsor
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Clark,May 4 2009, 08:31 AM
Hey guys, I just put these in to the front of my MY '00 with the intent to get max negative camber in the front.
I pressed-in the slotted plates a close to perfectly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis as possible without verification with a protractor, and had an odd problem.
When putting the ball-joint into the slotted plate in the direction for neg camber, and then trying to slide it as far inboard as possible, the ball joint interferes with the thickened part of the control arm before it reaches even close to the end of the slot for adjustment.
Does anyone here have any insight into this?
I spoke with Engineering at SPC, we confirmed that I'm using the right part #, seem to be (I don't have pics) putting the in the right way for what I want, and that this isn't some issue of multi-model common parts (like that plate is common amongst model cars and on some of them I'd get all the way to the end of the slot).
I pressed-in the slotted plates a close to perfectly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis as possible without verification with a protractor, and had an odd problem.
When putting the ball-joint into the slotted plate in the direction for neg camber, and then trying to slide it as far inboard as possible, the ball joint interferes with the thickened part of the control arm before it reaches even close to the end of the slot for adjustment.
Does anyone here have any insight into this?
I spoke with Engineering at SPC, we confirmed that I'm using the right part #, seem to be (I don't have pics) putting the in the right way for what I want, and that this isn't some issue of multi-model common parts (like that plate is common amongst model cars and on some of them I'd get all the way to the end of the slot).
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,784
Likes: 2
From: Greer, SC
Yea, I just installed my replacement balljoints this week. The offset portion of the balljoint will make contact with the control arm before the stud reaches the end of the slot. I did the trick where I rotated the upper disc by 90 degrees to lock the stud in that one position. That also keeps the offset portion clear of the arm. When we put the car up on the rack, it had -4 degrees of camber, so it works perfectly.