SPC Adjustable Ball Joint Install How-To
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Gold Coast
Has anyone look at fabricating a piece of metal (like a key) to place in the slot to lock the ball joint to one side and prevent it from slipping? Is it possible?
I am considering getting this joint or get a workshop to custom fabricate a offset bushes. I am just worried about possible movement. It shouldn't be too bad since I have a camber gauge but just want to prevent any hassle later down the track.
I am considering getting this joint or get a workshop to custom fabricate a offset bushes. I am just worried about possible movement. It shouldn't be too bad since I have a camber gauge but just want to prevent any hassle later down the track.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Lewisville, TX
Originally Posted by robrob,Oct 24 2007, 01:52 PM
I finally hit the track again at the Fall Colors HPDE on Monday. The car handled very well with the SPC ball joints and -2.8 degrees of front camber. I did wear a hole in the right front fender well so maybe 6.7 degrees of caster is excessive or it could be a combination of being lowered 7/8 of an inch and the Enkei RPF1 wheels (not the best offset for the S).
Rob
Rob
I'm going to break down and get this. I'll probably only start at -3.0* and shoot for 6.5* caster.
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From: Farmingdale, NJ
Originally Posted by robrob,Oct 24 2007, 01:52 PM
I did wear a hole in the right front fender well so maybe 6.7 degrees of caster is excessive or it could be a combination of being lowered 7/8 of an inch and the Enkei RPF1 wheels (not the best offset for the S).
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From: Lewisville, TX
Originally Posted by tinkfist,Oct 24 2007, 08:43 PM
That wear is from the bowl. Anyone with soft suspensions and R-comps should be scrapping the hell out of the RF lining in the bowl
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Gold Coast
Originally Posted by FF2Skip,Oct 25 2007, 09:25 AM
Rob, Scot is running -3.6* with the SPC kit. Not sure about caster. We left the pits together for a lap. The turn before Stone House straight(2nd one leaving the pits), he already had the front inside wheel off the ground.
I'm going to break down and get this. I'll probably only start at -3.0* and shoot for 6.5* caster.
I'm going to break down and get this. I'll probably only start at -3.0* and shoot for 6.5* caster.
Thread Starter
Former Moderator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,634
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From: West Virginia
great write up. I have been thinking about this kit for a while. What is the most negative camber you were able to get up front before the SPC install?
Rob
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Former Moderator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,634
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From: West Virginia
That wear is from the bowl.
Did you do anything about it? I run the Shenandoah Circuit a lot so I don't see the point in trying to plug the hole. I'll probably raise the car a little, I'm running about 7/8" lower than stock so that may help.
Rob
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Just got done installing the SPC joint. I figured a simple way to help the joint from slipping.
Once the #2 bottom plate is pressed in the way it should be. Do everything that you are supposed to however, instead of setting the #1 plate (top plate) parallel to the bottom (pressed in plate) place it perpendicular. By doing this you get max neg camber and it prevents the SPC from sliding. The downside to this is you cant really adjust the camber from the SPC, you are stuck with max neg......so have to use your stock adjusters to change your camber.
Thought that might help.
Once the #2 bottom plate is pressed in the way it should be. Do everything that you are supposed to however, instead of setting the #1 plate (top plate) parallel to the bottom (pressed in plate) place it perpendicular. By doing this you get max neg camber and it prevents the SPC from sliding. The downside to this is you cant really adjust the camber from the SPC, you are stuck with max neg......so have to use your stock adjusters to change your camber.
Thought that might help.