I'll give it a whirl. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

I have searched quite a bit about this, but I'm still not exactly sure what's my best option.

AP1 - 140k on stock suspension... is powerflex really the only after market option?

Also, how tough is it to replace the OEM bushings in the control arms?

I'm surprised their isn't a DIY for this yet. If its possible, I don't know.

 

I can help you out with how to change them. The upper and lower A-arm bushings are most easily gotten out using a long threaded bolt and a couple of sockets. Might have to go to harbor freight with your control arm to find the right size socket to fit the outside. I have pics but I cant upload till i get home. Anyway, the horizontal bushings come out from the outside (only direction they can go). Put a big socket on the outside that is just bigger than the outside diameter of the bushing (about 1 3/4 inch socket is what I used), then on the inside use a socket that is smaller diameter than the opening for the bushing. I think i used a 22mm on the inside. Thread the bolt through it all with a nut on the inside. I used washers too. Then hit it with an impact. Sucks the bushings right out. If poly then your can just slip the bushings in by hand. For the compliance bushing you will have to use a press or cut/burn it out then knock it in evenly with a hammer and block of wood on a vice.

I used powerflex bushings on mine. I know that their are some other options but not sure what. I would have to say I like the powerflex bushings. They dont make compliance bushings though. In fact i searched and the only compliance bushings I could find were mugen (which are OEM honda basically. Exact look and markings as my oem ones that came out). Honda only sells em already pressed in the arms. Arms are expensive. Mugen bushings I got for 88 bucks.

 

Quick question, what can I do alignment wise that will keep the tail more in check in slaloms and quick transitions, without causing push elsewhere... Right now the car feels awesome on corner exit, is balanced nicely in steady state corners, has awesome turn in, but is loose in slaloms and quick transitions...

I tried stiffening the front bar, fixed the problem but gave me too much push elsewhere, I tried messing with shock settings (only have rebound adjustment) but when that worked, it also caused too much push on corner exit and hurt turn in... So im left with alignment, Would it be better to increase camber in the rear (potentially hurting my ability to put down power on corner exit) or more toe in in the rear? I am really not sure what to do...

 

- last updated July 30, 2014 -

Car: 2006 S2000 AP1
Weight: Unknown currently. Last year it was 2690 with no driver.

Ride height: 13.125"f / 13.25"r hub center to metal fender edge
Springs: 850f/700r 750f / 550r
Front Bar: Gendron 1.25" Hollow, 0.25". (6 of 6) Gendron 1.375" Monster Bar (3 of 6)
Rear Bar: 2007 MX-5 Front Bar Gendron 1", 0.095" wall bar (1 of 6)
Alignment: -2.2f, -2.2r camber, 0" toe front, 1/16" rear toe -3.1*f, -2.6*r camber, 0" toe front and 0.30" toe-in total rear
Tires: 255 square Hankook RS3 v1 255 square Hankook RS3 v2
Wheels: 949 Racing 6ULR 17x9

Bushings: OEM control arm bushings
Hardrace offset camber joints w/o rollcenter plate

 

My setup is quite different from the norm (VERY soft rear springs), so keep that in mind... I had the exact same problem of amazing slaloms but pushy in the sweepers for most of last year and at Nats. There wasn't a single magic bullet that fixed it for Blytheville. We softened the uber stiff gendron bar down to 5/6, changed the rake to where it was less negative, softened the front rebound, and changed the rear toe a smidge.

This made the car a little more dancy in the slaloms but with my rear springs being so soft the ass end of the car would set beautifully as I slithered through the next cone. Plus... zero, nada, no push in the sweepers. Makes me giggle thinking about it. LOL

In this video, I believe you can see what I am talking about:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpjU9Agg2Ko[/media]

-Dave

 

Dave's comments are good and certainly list things that can be attempted. I did not see your setup posted which may also help us understand your complete situation. If it's in another thread then just point to it.

As you will see more and more in this thread that rake is a very important factor in establishing balance for the handling under differing course conditions. If all other settings appear to be within reason, rake can sometimes make all the difference. If you don't have at least 1/4" total toe in rear then try that first.

A good sanity check is to have another respectable driver(s) try it out and see if the same handling character is present. I've had other drivers tell me my car pushes really bad and I have no idea what they're talking about. Driving style can make a difference under different course conditions and if not adjusted for the handling of the car will never be right every where.

 

As for other bushing options see link below. They also sell the Mugen compliance bushings.

GOTuning.com - Spoon bushings

 

I wish we knew if these bushings were actually any stiffer or not. It's been rumored that the Mugen bushings are the same as OE.

 

I have a friend that is making Delrin bushings still. I would just have anyone interested contact him though. PM me if you want his email address.