murderedrsx

Matt. When i installed mine i put them side by side. Exact same marking on the mugen ones. Same rubber stamps. I say they are exactly the same as stock.

glagola1

It's too bad you did not have a durometer to check hardness. Oh well.

murderedrsx

True. I did not. But then again why would the rubber have the exact same casting marks? I mean i guess mugen could have used the same mold.

murderedrsx

In fact it had the same yellow paint pen stamps to denote the top/bottom. Thats a hell of a kawinkydink.

Random1

On the web page they claim that the Mugen compliance bushings are "hardened" rubber. I remember seeing this discussed in an s2ki thread in the past. IIRC they claimed that Mugen had access to the Honda molds.

From the GOTuning.com web page...

Description:

Fits all S2000 model year. Mugen hard bushings feature hardened rubber for less flex and more direct feel.

Sold in sets for specific bushings
Front Compliance Set - 2 Piece Set [51391-XGS-S0N0] - $88
Front Lower Arm Set - 2 Piece Set [51353-XGS-S0N0] - $97
Front Lower Damper Set - 2 Piece Set [51810-XGS-S0N0] - $132
Front Upper Arm Set - 4 Piece Set [51455-XGS-S0N0] - $347
Spring Mounting Set - 4 Piece Set [51686-XGS-S0N0] - $81




If you follow the link I posted above you can view the Spoon front compliance bushings which they claim are "stiffer" bushings.

From the GOTuning.com web page...

Description:

Fits all S2000 model years. Stiffer bushings for more direct suspension response. Reduces play in suspension components.

Includes the following pieces:
1. Front Upper Arm Set (4pcs) - 51455-AP1-000 - $360
2. Front Lower Arm Set (2pcs) - 51353-AP1-000 - $105
3. Front Compliance Set (2pcs) - 51391-AP1-000 - $105
4. Front & Rear Lower Damper Set (4pcs) - 51810-AP1-000 - $130
5. Rear Lower Arm Set (2pcs) - 52353-AP1-000 - $105
6. Rear Control Arm Set (2pcs) - 52366-AP1-000 - $105

josh7owens

Whats wierd me is that mugan doesn't sell every single bushing needed to do all of them. If I remember correctly it was a couple bushings from the rear. Maybe the upper control arm. All new arms and everything from honda totals to $16XX and all the bushings from mugan total to $884. I wonder how hard/long it will take to change all the bushing. Can I do it all with a HF press or would I need my cousin to use his badass press at honda? I feel like it would be 100 times easier to just pop on new arms but it's double the price. If you order new arms with new bushings will the bushings be old/cracking from setting in storage or will they be air tight packaged?


The plan is to in march take all the arms off the car and replace the bushing or the arms and bushing when I put my shocks back on. Which brings up a question. Does anyone know where I can get a free copy of WinGeo? I want to model up the S2000 in it and play with some things.





As for the rear ball joint can't you just order one from honda? They list a part number. Just press it out and press the new one in. How did you figure out yours had play in it? Did it acutally move when you pulled on the hub or something? At 150k I think I'll check mine when I tear everything down. Everything on the car is basicly new or replaced besides the internals of the engine and even the engine has all new rod bearings in it. I plan to rebuild the first and second gear set if it's notchy this season. Locally we reqire alot of down shifts and it got alittle notchy on colder days or when the trans oil got over a few months old.

murderedrsx

I dont know what an hf press is but I am assuming harbor freight? Any old press should work, the trick is getting a race that is just the right size to push the bushings out. Now the compliance bushings its easiest to use a press. The other i couldnt even rsally use a press (a-arms) because, well you will see if you try. Instead use a long threaded bolt that will go through the bushing. Thenbuse half inch drive sockets, one smaller as the pusher and a larger one to fit around the bushing. Hit it with an impact. Itll suck the bushings right out. If you arent replacing with poly then youll have to reverse the process or use a press. Anyway when you play with this youll see exactlyvhow it works.

To test the ball joints the way i have done it in the past is to simply use a huge pair of slip joint pliers. Put one side of the jaw on the flat part at the top and the other at the flat aart of the stud. So basically the axis through the joint. Squeeze. Should have zero play. Whats the honda aart number? I can only find them as an assembly with the knuckle.

josh7owens

I lied, it was the boot that I saw a part number for. The hubs are 157 each.



Would the mugan or poly bushings be better? I you can get all the poly bushings for under $700 not including the complience bushing. I forgot the poly bushing website off the top of my head though.


I think it was powerflex

murderedrsx

Yeah i did powerflex. Others will have to weigh in on mugen, spoon, delrin. I love the way my front end feels with the powerflex poly. Feedback is insanely good, and zero slop. I used the mugen compliance bushings.

murderedrsx

I have the rears as well, just waiting to put em in as i have to do the ball joints, and rear brake lines, maybe rebuild/replace the axles. I wanna do it all in one day, as i get free run of the shop on saturdays.