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View Poll Results: What front sway bar do you use?
Gendron 1.25" hollow
16.57%
Gendron 1.375" hollow
8.84%
Ankeny single blade
0.55%
Ankeny dual blade
7.73%
Comptech Adjustable V2
7.18%
Saner
19.34%
Other
13.26%
Eibach
20.44%
Standard Gendron
6.08%
Voters: 181. You may not vote on this poll

STR Prep - Sway Bars

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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 07:53 AM
  #111  
ViperASR's Avatar
 
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Matt, your right, I meant to say no rear bar.

I couldn't stand the car with the rear bar off at first, but I just made some adjustments to the car and it feels great to me. I'm running a Saner front bar on full soft (probably going to bump it up to the middle setting just to test it). I wonder if running the massive front bar with stiff front springs is what made the car feel bad with the rear bar pulled.

For what my opinion is worth (not much...), the car wasn't very comfortable with the rear bar on. Every time I went near the throttle it just went sideways. This was all on stock suspension though, I haven't tried it with the 600# springs. Having the rear bar off allows me to be real aggressive with the throttle off corner. You just have to use a bit of patience with the car mid-corner to prevent it from washing wide. This was all with -1.8 degrees of camber in the front, I'm hoping the increased front camber will help with my mid-corner grip problems.

I'd be interested to drive a car with stiffer springs, and bars.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 08:39 AM
  #112  
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I'm not sure how you guys with soft set-ups get through elements quickly. When the car is soft I can't throw the car through the elements near as fast as I can on my "stiff set-up."
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 09:08 AM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by TTMartin
Originally Posted by glagola1' timestamp='1325605323' post='21281285
Oh, sorry. I'm running 750s back there.
Thanks,

I think I'm on target with my CR springs (384 front, 343 rear) and the '00-'01 427 bar rear, and a Gendron Monster Bar on the front.
I hate having to wait till spring to see if it all comes together.

This set-up should be balanced similar to what you ran at nationals. Did your car have too much oversteer, or were you just looking to soften the rear end a little going to the '06 bar?
At nationals, the car was pushy. That surface was sticky with all the clean lines and rubber laid down and there was tons of grip. At Blytheville a month later, the car was undrivably loose until I started softening rear shocks and the course started getting cleaner on day 2. The point is that the surface is very important and having a car that you can adjust to suit the available grip is key. I do not believe that there is a "set it and forget it" set up. There wasn't in my CRX and I drove that thing through 3 years worth of development.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 10:42 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by josh7owens
Guys I talked to bill today and wanted to share the news with everyone! He has made a ball-bearing rear sway bar for the s2k. It's hollow using 120 wall tubing and it weights about 8 lbs with everything. He said it has 5 holes and calculating the rates at the wheels the stiffest setting is 110 in/lb or degree/lb (he didn't say and I forgot to ask) and the softest setting is 75 in/lb or degree. He said the stock 00 ap1 rear bar is 230 so that might be able to tell us if he used in or degree.

He said he shipped out the first one the other day and can start making them soon. The price is around $400.


I'm not sure I want the weight gain but I'd love ball bearing mounts front and rear.
Just ordered mine. I want some adjustability since there will be much R&D with our setup over the next year.

Originally Posted by josh7owens
I'm not sure how you guys with soft set-ups get through elements quickly. When the car is soft I can't throw the car through the elements near as fast as I can on my "stiff set-up."
The first inputs are fine, its when switching back while the suspension is loaded where the issues start. There is a delay, detached, or a numb feel from the initial bite followed by the rear getting out of sync with your desired line. There are many variables to consider that will change these characteristics.

-Marc
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 10:55 AM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by rocket71
The winter rebuild continues. Ordered the Gendron Hollow Front Bar Section and while on the phone Bill helped
How much did that run you? Haven't installed mine yet, but looking like the solid bar I have is a bit much for STR...
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 10:58 AM
  #116  
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I agree and this delay caused from a soft set-up requires setting up early and ultimatly would mean you can't transition as fast through the elements. Otherwise saying it would be slower because you can't go as fast thought the elements. Correct? People running crazy stiff front roll stiffness but then running a really soft rear roll stiffness would result in a very pushy car I would think unless they dail it out with rear toe-in and/or camber. With a unbalanced roll stiffness I would also think the front of the car will be always waiting on the rear of the car to follow. I think a close to balanced roll stiffness front/rear would be ideal but we have to make the rear end stick.


What center section did you go with Marc? The .095 or .125 wall thickness? I would think the .095 since on the softest setting it's stiffer then the miata bar. This rear bar will be really nice at autocrosses because I can stick/unstick the rear very easily by changing the rear bar setting in grid. I rather change a rear bar setting then mess with shocks.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 11:02 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by josh7owens
I agree and this delay caused from a soft set-up requires setting up early and ultimately would mean you can't transition as fast through the elements. Otherwise saying it would be slower because you can't go as fast thought the elements. Correct? People running crazy stiff front roll stiffness but then running a really soft rear roll stiffness would result in a very pushy car I would think unless they dail it out with rear toe-in and/or camber. With a unbalanced roll stiffness I would also think the front of the car will be always waiting on the rear of the car to follow. I think a close to balanced roll stiffness front/rear would be ideal but we have to make the rear end stick.


What center section did you go with Marc? The .095 or .125 wall thickness? I would think the .095 since on the softest setting it's stiffer then the miata bar.
I went with the smallest center section. The softest setting will be slightly stiffer than the MX-5 bar based on some measurement a customer took for Bill Gendron.

-Marc
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 11:14 AM
  #118  
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Nice! I'm gonna order mine soon.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 11:35 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by MattP
Originally Posted by rocket71' timestamp='1325470871' post='21278022
The winter rebuild continues. Ordered the Gendron Hollow Front Bar Section and while on the phone Bill helped
How much did that run you? Haven't installed mine yet, but looking like the solid bar I have is a bit much for STR...
They are going for $599. Note: They come with the ball bearing bushings. The first 5 are a little cheaper, that deal is likely gone since I was #3.



Last year, I ran the stock Ohlins Road & Track (DFV) springs. 572F / 457R. The car was well balanced but slow in transitions. I went to the Gendron Solid up front and MX5 rear bar. The car was slow to transition. I went to 800F / 572R and the car was very pushy but transitioning was much better. We were able to get the push out of the car with shock settings but the car didn't "feel" right. I ran in Macon, GA two weeks ago and dialed back the front bar 2 holes to try it out and boy did the car liven up. I love it now. However, I am sending the shocks off to Performance Shock to be re-valved. They are going to valve them for the higher spring rates since I have almost out of adjustment in the front. I am also going to have more low speed support dialed in so I can run a little less bar up front.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 05:13 PM
  #120  
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I'll just leave this here..

These came from Bill Gendron him self...

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