Track Only Alignment
#12
#14
I think it depends on your tires and balance you want.
I am running dunlup star spec 2 and i had 3.0 front and 3.0 back. the back had some over steer mid exit. previously i had 2.8 all around and it was very neutral. So now its time to try 3.0 front and 2.8 back.
I think its about you dialing it in to the way you drive and like everyone else says, its about your tire choice
I am running dunlup star spec 2 and i had 3.0 front and 3.0 back. the back had some over steer mid exit. previously i had 2.8 all around and it was very neutral. So now its time to try 3.0 front and 2.8 back.
I think its about you dialing it in to the way you drive and like everyone else says, its about your tire choice
#15
A traditional way to determine camber is to use a tire pyrometer immediately after coming off the track after several hot laps. Typically camber and tire pressure would be adjusted so that they were even across the tire.
A more modern way is to record the tire temperatures across the tread on the track and adjust the camber and pressure so they are even in the corners.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWNNl__Rbmc[/media]
A more modern way is to record the tire temperatures across the tread on the track and adjust the camber and pressure so they are even in the corners.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWNNl__Rbmc[/media]
Mind sharing your alignment settings in the video?
Thank You.
#16
I started with this earlier this year and corded the outside fronts on my Maxxis RC-1's (wasn't paying attention as I got faster - still got 31 heat cycles out of them before this).
My current alignment and now on Hoosier R7's. I've only done one day on them and didn't take an temperature samples.
Details on my setup can be found here: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/112...#entry23592378
For the most part, I've been following what a good friend of mine has recommended I do for alignments. He's a phenomal driver and 2x NASA TT3 Nationals champ and 2x SCCA AutoX champ (SM and BSP). He puts me in a good place to start with and I can feel out the car from there.
My current alignment and now on Hoosier R7's. I've only done one day on them and didn't take an temperature samples.
Details on my setup can be found here: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/112...#entry23592378
For the most part, I've been following what a good friend of mine has recommended I do for alignments. He's a phenomal driver and 2x NASA TT3 Nationals champ and 2x SCCA AutoX champ (SM and BSP). He puts me in a good place to start with and I can feel out the car from there.
#17
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I don't seem anything wrong with that. I still prefer zero toe up front, but I like a one degree split front to rear. Hoosier says their A7/R7 doesn't like more than -3 degrees though.
#18
I don't see anything saying it doesn't like more, but that it requires "about".
As far as toe up front. After getting the car settled/dialed in, my buddy recommended to go with the toe out up front to keep up turn entry speed. Both this and the alignment seemed to do well this past weekend.
Originally Posted by Hoosier
Chassis Setup Recommendations
For optimum performance the Hoosier P-Metric radial tires require about 3 degrees of negative camber.
For optimum performance the Hoosier P-Metric radial tires require about 3 degrees of negative camber.
#19
For those of you that are running -3.0+ camber in the front, do you have that "numb" feeling in the steering?
I only have -2.25 up front and the feeling of the steering not wanting to re-align itself back to "straight", in addition to the "numb" feeling, gives me lack of confidence, not allowing me to drive the car as aggressively as before.
Thanks.
I only have -2.25 up front and the feeling of the steering not wanting to re-align itself back to "straight", in addition to the "numb" feeling, gives me lack of confidence, not allowing me to drive the car as aggressively as before.
Thanks.
#20
Community Organizer
For those of you that are running -3.0+ camber in the front, do you have that "numb" feeling in the steering?
I only have -2.25 up front and the feeling of the steering not wanting to re-align itself back to "straight", in addition to the "numb" feeling, gives me lack of confidence, not allowing me to drive the car as aggressively as before.
Thanks.
I only have -2.25 up front and the feeling of the steering not wanting to re-align itself back to "straight", in addition to the "numb" feeling, gives me lack of confidence, not allowing me to drive the car as aggressively as before.
Thanks.