RSXLNT

Thank you for the replys. I'm on street tires, but I appreciate the notion that some items need replacing before they fail. I don't like pressing my luck. If I'm not mistake, when the hub fails, the wheel falls off.

boyguan

i am currently on street tires and slower than most. i would think bearings like most cars do let you know when they fail. If your just a driver you might not notice the noise.

speaking of hubs.

one day one of our buddies was driving around and pow the rear lug nut snapped off. he blamed it on the torque of the lug and stopped for the day. he tried to drive it home but the hub ended up snapping and he had to tow it.

ive never seen a hub crack like that before and he was running 255 r comps.

anorexicpoodle

Ive done 2 left rear bearings and 1 right rear bearing, and both rear hubs. When the bearing starts to go it creates even more heat than normal, and we found when pulling the hub out to do the bearing, that the hub itself had been heat cycled so many times and gotten so hot, the metal had become brittle (the metal of the hub at the bearing race could be flaked off with your fingernail).

If you cook off a bearing like this make absolutely sure you check the condition of the hub before slapping it back together or you may get into the exact same condition where you get a spectacular hub failure which will usually end in writing off the car if it happens on track.

nissanfanatic

All of my failures have involved one half of the inner race spinning on the hub causing the hub to not be reusable. I'd just order a new hub with the wheel bearing and play it safe.

rrthorne8

once every winter i just grab a new rear set and put them on. rear hubs from dorman now are pretty cheap, bearings from national. their new design seems to wear a little better also, seems "looser" when playing with them side by side, must give a little extra for expansion when hot. i torque mine to 340ft/lb

CKit

Great info!

robrob

My right rear wheel bearing was the first to go. It made lots of noise so I let the Honda dealer do it but it cost over $400 The left rear started making noise a couple of months later so I bought a Harbor Freight 12 ton shop press and a set of dies and replaced the bearing and hub myself. A couple of months later the right rear started making noise again so I replaced it. I assume the dealer screwed up the install to cause it to fail so quickly. A bonus of doing it so quickly was I found the ABS sensor with no hold-down bolt which was causing intermittent ABS failure. The dealer left the bolt off.

The next bearing to go was the left front. It started making noise on the first day of the SCCA comp school so I didn't have time to replace it. I thought it would make it through the 3 day school but it failed on track. The RacingBrake front rotor is the only thing that held the wheel on as I drove over 1 mile back to the paddock :dumbass:

Oleg was working for Meathead Racing as my support guy and he actually replaced the bearing and hub at the track (I had to attend classes so I couldn't do it--and Oleg is an excellent mechanic). He got it done quick enough that I didn't miss too much track time so I was able to complete the school and get the comp license. He kept me from having to travel north to complete another comp school.

Just to be safe I went ahead and replaced both front hubs and bearings after the school. That was two years ago and haven't had a bearing go bad since. I really believe running 2 piece RacingBrake rotors at all four corners is preventing bearing heat soak.

hai1206vn

Does the axle nut TSB help you guys? I just did mine today.