wheel studs, arp vs msi
05-10-2019, 03:53 AM
#1
wheel studs, arp vs msi
found a couple of threads about both options but it seems the arp is a love hate thing while the msi seem like a more reliable option. do you need to get the lug nuts they sell or will any open nut with the correct angle for the rim work (obviously the threads are the same but will it make it stronger and more reliable)? can you get them with the NASCAR cut and install them with out removing the hub and bearing? opinions on both or other options? thanks!
05-10-2019, 05:28 AM
#2
Community Organizer
How is the ARP stud a love/hate thing? I have OE length ARP studs on my car and they've given me no issues. I installed them while I replaced the bearings and hubs at all four corners, so it was easy for me. Don't think you can install MSI or ARP studs with the hub attached to the knuckle.
05-10-2019, 06:29 AM
#3
You can do it without removing hub and bearing, but you will need to grind out a fair bit of material on the knuckle for it to be possible.
Also the shoulder on the stud needs to be grinded flat on one side.
Got some pictures in my build thread https://www.s2ki.com/forums/automoti.../#post24595584
As long as the threads remains the same any open end nut should work.
Also the shoulder on the stud needs to be grinded flat on one side.
Got some pictures in my build thread https://www.s2ki.com/forums/automoti.../#post24595584
As long as the threads remains the same any open end nut should work.
05-10-2019, 06:54 AM
#4
How is the ARP stud a love/hate thing? I have OE length ARP studs on my car and they've given me no issues. I installed them while I replaced the bearings and hubs at all four corners, so it was easy for me. Don't think you can install MSI or ARP studs with the hub attached to the knuckle.
it seems half the people have been fine with them while the other half had had them fail on them.
05-10-2019, 06:56 AM
#5
You can do it without removing hub and bearing, but you will need to grind out a fair bit of material on the knuckle for it to be possible.
Also the shoulder on the stud needs to be grinded flat on one side.
Got some pictures in my build thread https://www.s2ki.com/forums/automoti.../#post24595584
As long as the threads remains the same any open end nut should work.
Also the shoulder on the stud needs to be grinded flat on one side.
Got some pictures in my build thread https://www.s2ki.com/forums/automoti.../#post24595584
As long as the threads remains the same any open end nut should work.
05-10-2019, 07:13 AM
#6
05-10-2019, 08:34 AM
#7
Can't remember but from some UK dealer, I have the 51mm ones https://www.revotec.com/acatalog/Air-Outlet-Ducts.html
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05-11-2019, 07:21 AM
#8
I've used both extensively and much prefer the MSI. Both will be very reliable however.
The MSI's have a longer bullet nose and are specifically designed to be hit with their spring loaded pit socket for changing wheels during a race. We have never cross threaded an MSI or broken one. You can cross a ARP if you really screw up the alignment because of the shorter bullet nose.
For HPDE stuff both brands work fine. For racing the MSI stud is cut perfectly against the nut so it spins on quicker than a stock unit and it stays on. Basically just loose enough to spin on quick, without being so loose that the lug nut backs off during the race. Curtis at MSI told me years ago that he lost business to another supplier that was cutting the nut more so it would spin on easier. Then the teams started loosing wheels part way through the stint. The nut would work loose. There's a lot that goes into his work. A new MSI stud and nut spin on like absolute butter before they get dirty.
We had to take left side tires twice last weekend at Road America during an 8hr enduro and I never thought twice about how it would go. It just works.
-Paddy
The MSI's have a longer bullet nose and are specifically designed to be hit with their spring loaded pit socket for changing wheels during a race. We have never cross threaded an MSI or broken one. You can cross a ARP if you really screw up the alignment because of the shorter bullet nose.
For HPDE stuff both brands work fine. For racing the MSI stud is cut perfectly against the nut so it spins on quicker than a stock unit and it stays on. Basically just loose enough to spin on quick, without being so loose that the lug nut backs off during the race. Curtis at MSI told me years ago that he lost business to another supplier that was cutting the nut more so it would spin on easier. Then the teams started loosing wheels part way through the stint. The nut would work loose. There's a lot that goes into his work. A new MSI stud and nut spin on like absolute butter before they get dirty.
We had to take left side tires twice last weekend at Road America during an 8hr enduro and I never thought twice about how it would go. It just works.
-Paddy
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freq (05-12-2019)
05-12-2019, 05:54 AM
#9
Community Organizer
I'm still on stock studs but all I have ever heard was RAVE reviews on MSI.
Last edited by freq; 05-12-2019 at 06:59 AM.
05-13-2019, 01:50 PM
#10
I've used both extensively and much prefer the MSI. Both will be very reliable however.
The MSI's have a longer bullet nose and are specifically designed to be hit with their spring loaded pit socket for changing wheels during a race. We have never cross threaded an MSI or broken one. You can cross a ARP if you really screw up the alignment because of the shorter bullet nose.
For HPDE stuff both brands work fine. For racing the MSI stud is cut perfectly against the nut so it spins on quicker than a stock unit and it stays on. Basically just loose enough to spin on quick, without being so loose that the lug nut backs off during the race. Curtis at MSI told me years ago that he lost business to another supplier that was cutting the nut more so it would spin on easier. Then the teams started loosing wheels part way through the stint. The nut would work loose. There's a lot that goes into his work. A new MSI stud and nut spin on like absolute butter before they get dirty.
We had to take left side tires twice last weekend at Road America during an 8hr enduro and I never thought twice about how it would go. It just works.
-Paddy
The MSI's have a longer bullet nose and are specifically designed to be hit with their spring loaded pit socket for changing wheels during a race. We have never cross threaded an MSI or broken one. You can cross a ARP if you really screw up the alignment because of the shorter bullet nose.
For HPDE stuff both brands work fine. For racing the MSI stud is cut perfectly against the nut so it spins on quicker than a stock unit and it stays on. Basically just loose enough to spin on quick, without being so loose that the lug nut backs off during the race. Curtis at MSI told me years ago that he lost business to another supplier that was cutting the nut more so it would spin on easier. Then the teams started loosing wheels part way through the stint. The nut would work loose. There's a lot that goes into his work. A new MSI stud and nut spin on like absolute butter before they get dirty.
We had to take left side tires twice last weekend at Road America during an 8hr enduro and I never thought twice about how it would go. It just works.
-Paddy