to Wing or to sway on a square
Read up on weight transfer and you will understand how it works. Basically a FSB or any means of stiffening the roll resistance at one end will cause less weight transfer at the other end.
Btw, every person in this thread has said to get front springs and or a sway bar (which accomplish the same thing of adding front roll stiffness) and not just a wing...
Btw, every person in this thread has said to get front springs and or a sway bar (which accomplish the same thing of adding front roll stiffness) and not just a wing...
FYI, with advice from Mike and limited to OEM swaybars by class rules:
I have a 245 square Hoosier setup on 17x8.5 wheels (class limit) on 600 / 500 springs and OEM swaybars and the car is very well balanced. Not oversteery.
There is CR aero on the car, but the main handling characteristics are from the springs and dampers.
I have a 245 square Hoosier setup on 17x8.5 wheels (class limit) on 600 / 500 springs and OEM swaybars and the car is very well balanced. Not oversteery.
There is CR aero on the car, but the main handling characteristics are from the springs and dampers.
Using an AP1 flywheel and I'm having a mind blank on the clutch, but I think its a the an ACT... did it back ~2009 and can't remember which one at the moment.
BTW- figured out how to post a pic (I think):

I just went though the posts and I don't think there was any clear majority. A few mention wings saying they work, but not that they think its to be used here and others talked back and forth about re-valving (or lack there of) of the KW's. For the rest I think it was 1 for wing, 1 for bar, 1 for springs
oh, and I almost forgot... 1 for driver 
Drive upgrade goes without saying... its also probably the biggest source for weight savings as well next to the OEM exhaust! Short of that, know the real answer is "d) all of the above". I think for me now, knowing how I feel about the back end getting light at speed as is, and my fear of high-speed oversteer, I think I'll START with the wing and if I can't get the car tuned in after my next track session, I'll upgrade the swaybar. I'm hesitant on the springs because I know there is a limited spring range for shocks without needing to revalve to match and changing all of that sounds like its going to be the most $$ and least easy to know exactly what is needed the first time and more expensive to change (as opposed to adjusting AOA or swaybar stiffness on an adjustable one).
FYI, with advice from Mike and limited to OEM swaybars by class rules:
I have a 245 square Hoosier setup on 17x8.5 wheels (class limit) on 600 / 500 springs and OEM swaybars and the car is very well balanced. Not oversteery.
There is CR aero on the car, but the main handling characteristics are from the springs and dampers.
I have a 245 square Hoosier setup on 17x8.5 wheels (class limit) on 600 / 500 springs and OEM swaybars and the car is very well balanced. Not oversteery.
There is CR aero on the car, but the main handling characteristics are from the springs and dampers.
I run a 255/255 square setup on R888's, 12k/10k springs and stock sway bars, nothing added, AP2.
0 front toe, .25 rear toe in, 2.3/2.5 camber.
Slight oversteer on slower tracks is the way I like it, I can easily neutralise it by slightly softening the rear and slightly stiffening the front damper.
I don't have your power though.
0 front toe, .25 rear toe in, 2.3/2.5 camber.
Slight oversteer on slower tracks is the way I like it, I can easily neutralise it by slightly softening the rear and slightly stiffening the front damper.
I don't have your power though.
I'm excited to get back onto the track with them, but the next event I'm signed up for with them MIGHT conflict with a work issue
I'm keeping my fingers crossed I'll be able to attend.






