2.2L Engine swap
Originally Posted by deathsled,Mar 7 2007, 10:47 PM
my car has been running an 00-01 ECU for thousands and thousands of miles
I recently swapped back to the AP2 ecu to compare, the car feels the slightest bit more powerful with the AP2 ecu, which is negated by the ability to rev further to maintain power after the shift, so you really miss that extra 1000rpm once its gone.
I also appear to get 2-3 more mpg when using the AP1 ecu.
I recently swapped back to the AP2 ecu to compare, the car feels the slightest bit more powerful with the AP2 ecu, which is negated by the ability to rev further to maintain power after the shift, so you really miss that extra 1000rpm once its gone.
I also appear to get 2-3 more mpg when using the AP1 ecu.
PM the details on the key swap.
I'm sure you can spin an F22 to 9k....at least with strong enough springs. Hell, I once spun (not deliberately) a GSR engine to 12k rpm...and it held. But the point is that it's not going to last long. When they design an engine, they make sure that it can be held at its set redline for a LONG time....as in hundreds of hours. They design it so that the fatigue loading on the moving parts is such that they can be cycled practically an infinite amount of times. However, designing a part such that it can last forever under fatigue often means it ends up being 10x stronger than the highest stresses it will ever see. But they will NOT over-engineer too much in this area, as over engineering means extra weight, and extra weight means extra stress... especially when you're accelerating that extra weight at 5000gs.
So if we design it to withstand 8000rpm...it means 8000rpm, and not much more. Sure, due to the nature of designing for fatigue it might actually survive a 20000rpm spin...but probably not more than once or twice.
Now 500 or 1000 extra rpm may not seem like much, but keep in mind that stresses rise exponentially due to rpm. That 1000rpm extra is about 30% more stress on the reciprocating parts....and that's not accounting for vibrations and whatnot. That little bit of extra stress almost surely means we went over the fatigue limit, and have turned the engine into a ticking time bomb.
So yeah...you'll be able to spin it to 9k. Probably 10...and if you're feeling brave maybe even 12. But you will QUICKLY lose the ability to do it every time you feel like, and every time the urge hits you...because it's not going to hold for very long.
If you don't belive me, just look at what Honda did to a Integra Type R engine compared to a GSR engine. Smaller journals, lighter pistons, lighter valves, some crazy pyramid bearing material, molybdenum coating, extra tight fastenening tolerances, extra tight balancing tolerances, extra counterweights on the crank, extra bracing for the crank and motor...and they threw in an oil cooler to top it all off. All this and more for 400 lousy rpm.
So if we design it to withstand 8000rpm...it means 8000rpm, and not much more. Sure, due to the nature of designing for fatigue it might actually survive a 20000rpm spin...but probably not more than once or twice.
Now 500 or 1000 extra rpm may not seem like much, but keep in mind that stresses rise exponentially due to rpm. That 1000rpm extra is about 30% more stress on the reciprocating parts....and that's not accounting for vibrations and whatnot. That little bit of extra stress almost surely means we went over the fatigue limit, and have turned the engine into a ticking time bomb.
So yeah...you'll be able to spin it to 9k. Probably 10...and if you're feeling brave maybe even 12. But you will QUICKLY lose the ability to do it every time you feel like, and every time the urge hits you...because it's not going to hold for very long.
If you don't belive me, just look at what Honda did to a Integra Type R engine compared to a GSR engine. Smaller journals, lighter pistons, lighter valves, some crazy pyramid bearing material, molybdenum coating, extra tight fastenening tolerances, extra tight balancing tolerances, extra counterweights on the crank, extra bracing for the crank and motor...and they threw in an oil cooler to top it all off. All this and more for 400 lousy rpm.
Why don't people try to increase the redline of the F20? Is it because the engine simply drops too much power past 9k? I've noticed that Inline Pro's 2.5 liter stroker kit revs up to 9k on the website's dyno chart. How could this not blow up your engine within a few spirited drives?
Originally Posted by Billman250,Mar 6 2007, 02:50 PM
Anybody know if an AP1 cluster is plug-n-play in an AP2 or vise versa?? Maybe the dash wiring part#s will shed some light.
Originally Posted by neonextgenazn,Mar 8 2007, 06:15 PM
Why don't people try to increase the redline of the F20?
hey bill,
deathsled is actually the new owner of my car. remember, I got my 2 keys programmed to work with the ap1 ecu and left the valet key to run the ap2 ecu.
ap2 ecu makes more hp everywhere on the dyno and even the peak hp is a couple more than the peak hp of the ap1. The benefit to the swap is that when the ap2 ecu needs to shift, the ap1 ecu keeps going and puts you at a higher rev after the shift. So in essence you have 5-10% more power in every gear except 1st from my calculations. I used a formula to measure area under the cover so I'm sure someone can correct my calcs if they're off
I really wouldn't recommend shifting anything after 8600 as the power just drops off very badly. I thought 8500 was the right spot imo
Deathsled, I also noticed better gas mileage with the ap1 ecu, but I just figured it was because it ran leaner. I saw your dyno and I do wonder if my a/f ratios were off from the dyno I used or if yours were off since it was such a big difference
deathsled is actually the new owner of my car. remember, I got my 2 keys programmed to work with the ap1 ecu and left the valet key to run the ap2 ecu.
ap2 ecu makes more hp everywhere on the dyno and even the peak hp is a couple more than the peak hp of the ap1. The benefit to the swap is that when the ap2 ecu needs to shift, the ap1 ecu keeps going and puts you at a higher rev after the shift. So in essence you have 5-10% more power in every gear except 1st from my calculations. I used a formula to measure area under the cover so I'm sure someone can correct my calcs if they're off
I really wouldn't recommend shifting anything after 8600 as the power just drops off very badly. I thought 8500 was the right spot imo
Deathsled, I also noticed better gas mileage with the ap1 ecu, but I just figured it was because it ran leaner. I saw your dyno and I do wonder if my a/f ratios were off from the dyno I used or if yours were off since it was such a big difference






