dang.. that's one fast shiftin!

 

thanx for the reply wisconcin So my question is why suddenly isn't anyone interested on that anymore?? Is the 4,57 so good or was there any problem with the 4,44?? Also the workshop reports I will need to change some bearing in the diff (put a new Honda one) is this right?? What else will I need to know??

THANX

 

www.ricks2k.com sells the OEM parts you will need. that includes 2 different bearings actually, if memory serves correctly.

the 4.44 are not as readily available, which I believe is why you see less of them. plus for some, they would rather have the extra "oomph" the 4.57 provides. even xviper stated he'd have gotten the 4.57 instead of the 4.44, but the 4.57 were not made yet when he got his.

be sure this shop has done a lot of diff/gear installs. this is not an easy task. they basically just need to follow the OEM instructions, with ONE MAJOR exception. that's the backlash. the backlash should be set to about .006. also, there is an "art" to this. getting the right contact patch is very important, and will require several adjustments and they will need to possibly make some different shims in different sizes to get it right.

the OEM honda shims will NOT work. even the thinnest one is NOT thin enough.

 

can anyone recommend a mechanic in S.Florida that could do this install correctly?

 

Sadly, I agree. I have the 4.44 in the pumpkin, and I can only wonder what the 4.57 feels like. As others have stated, the car should have come from the factory with the 4.44s.

 

[QUOTE=Wisconsin S2k,Sep 19 2005, 09:16 AM] www.ricks2k.com sells the OEM parts you will need.

 

if you know someone that has done gears, honestly just tell them to follow the OEM honda manual to a tee, with TWO exceptions.

firstly, the backlash MUST BE SET at about .006. DO NOT USE THE OEM SETTINGS FOR BACKLASH!! these gears have a tighter tolerance. so stay anything out of the .005-.007 range is going to cause a large amount of gear whine and improper fitment of the ring/pinion.

secondly, the book says to use honda oem shims, however, the thinnest oem shim is not thin enough. my total shim depth came to .104 inches, while the thinnest OEM shim i believe is .122 inches. WAY too thick.

ironically enough, .104 is a good shim depth to start at as well. it tends to be pretty close to what most need for the gear install.

lastly, after backlash is set, etc, the last step before closing up the diff is to check the contact patch. the OEM manual tells you how to do this. THIS is probably the most important part of the install, and also the part where it becomes more "art" than "technical". once you get a good contact patch, while remaining at about .006 backlash, then you're done.

whew.... now you see why this needs to be done professionally and by someone who knows what they are doing!

 

Have you done all those launches on the shorter gears? How wide were the tires? I've read road test articles, (2004 and later) that complain the clutch goes soft after one or two of those launches. The shorter gears would be less stress on the clutch.

 

i've never had a problem with the clutch going soft. and i've done as many as 12 runs in an hour.

 

i think he means the AP2 with the gh3y clutch delay valve.