Yes he does. Other than that typo, though, tof has been giving out some good information. Good job, tof.

 

Something else to consider is that no two cars will dyno the same number, and that there are a million other things that come into play when dynoing. Like air temp, elevation, moisture in the air, type of dyno, what gear your are pulling in. The list goes on and on.

And yes over time you will loose a little power. You wear out pistons, plugs valves and seals.

 

Yeah and what exactly does the $1,000+ AEM engine management thing do? Its so expensive!

 

it manage the engine i guess?


it's commonly known as stand alone, instead of adding a piggy back to the ecm, you have the ems run the motor, you can do countless things to it.

it cost alot but sometime you have no choice when you have a k20 in a crx, running 12 psi of boost withdual stage boost

 

notice most of the new car now are dyno'ed with SAE number, which is more of a realistic number since they have to dyno the car with the accessories like the stock car.

rwd drive train loss is around 17 percent

MR, FR loss is around 15 percent

awd can be as much as 20 percent

with all the new e-nanny it's harder to get a truth baseline number, some car will not let you to rev without a speed sensor reading, some car will not give full boost with the front wheel standing still, etc.

 

damn OP....rapid fire questions one after another eh?

AEM Engine Management is mainly for tuning purposes after you get F/I installed to manage the increased power demand. A/F ratios, boost & knock control are some of the few things one would have to worry about when going down this path.

 

You do realize that FR and MR are both RWD, right? Which kind of negates "rwd drive train loss is around 17 percent" when you already stated that it is 15%.

Maybe you meant FWD to be 15% and RWD to be 17%.

 

The reason the loses are different between MR's and FR's like Iam7head explained is because there is more drive train weight to turn in a FR. ( I.E. longer drive shaft, larger axles, and usually a larger tranny! More rotational weight = more power loss. That is why front wheel drives are usually the lowest loss and all wheel drives are highest!

 

inline pro turbo kit cost about $4000.00 but that doesnt include a engine management system to tune the car so it can make HP with the added turbo.... and tuning it is gonna cost you a few hundred too.

 

Well, first off thanks to SheDrivesIt for sticking up for me on the 3.56 vs 4.56 "typo". Yup...it was a typo...that's my story, etc. Actually I'm just not used to such numerically high rear ends...but I'm not quite used to a 9k RPM redline, either. Yet.

One more point about the AEM. It REPLACES your factory Honda ECU which controls fuel delivery, spark timing, and a bunch of other stuff. The AEM is completely programmable and fairly easy to use. A good tuner can work magic with one. A bad tuner can blow up your engine in nothing flat.

IIRC, engines were dyno tested with accessories since the SAE Net HP rating system came into effect many years ago. SAE Gross HP was measured without accessories and was the system in wide use in the muscle car era, which helps explain those 400 hp engines that could only produce high 14s in the quarter pushing 3000 lb "compact" cars.

The recent change to SAE testing protocol, I believe, is the requirement to use the stock exhaust system.

If I have any of this wrong someone PLEASE post a correction. This could be another 3.56/3.77 post.