If you are going to consider amsoil look into the 0-30 weight. It is their best oil. I am using that in my s, and their synthetic in my rear. I have heard some negative feedback on the new mobil one trysnthetic coming from this board. If you do not want to use synthetic, Run a standard oil with an additive like BG, MOA.

Good Luck

 

M1 works, is reasonably price (relative to Amsoil, Redline, RP, etc.), and is available everywhere.

I see no reason to hunt down and pay up for the more esoteric alternatives.

 

Nice try. Technical specifications do give you some information about the characteristics of the oil, as measured by the manufacturer. These specs need to be independently verified. But more importantly analysis of actual performance in real engines like you and I drive needs to be done. That is, how important is a particlar spec to performance, and how important are small differences in these specs?

I have a feeling that individual preferences for particular brands has almost nothing to do with actual performance, and has more to do with wishful thinking and belief, not data.

Back in the 60's I used to put only Havoline in my car because I thought it was the best. My best friend used Valvoline because he thought IT was the best. Neither of us had any real information upon which to base our choices, and both oils worked superbly. We concluded that we had about as much foundation for choosing one oil over another has I did for my preference for the color blue and his preference for the color green. Each of knew we were right, but the difference was all in our heads. Same with oil.

We as consumers who spent signficant sums of money on a high peformance automobile, with an advanced, high technology engine, should have independent research data with which to make a motor oil choice. Why do we settle for less?

 

it's based on what I would call fact...

tests of Amsoil Vs Mobil1http://matti-syntheticoil.com/Dealer_Site/...e_all_oils.html

 

what do you think about that premium quaker state synthetic?

 

Mobil1 0W40

 

Years ago I used Mobil 1 in a vehicle that I accumulated around 50K miles a year. I noticed that when I tried to unscrew the spark plugs(during maint) I had to use a wrench all the way out. Inspection showed a strange hard dark brown varnish on the threads. I had never seen varnish like this before and thus I assumed it could have been the oil. It made me nervous that the varnish might be building up elsewhere in the engine.

So then tried Amsoil(became a dealer a couple of years after using the stuff) and have used it ever since in cars(diesel & gas) trannys, compressors, 2 cycles(the 100:1, 2 cycle mix is also very good).

I now use 5W-30 in the S2000 but my dealer suggested the 10W-30 since this is the Honda recomm. weight.

Since I have never used any other synthetic I cannot comment on their performance. All I can say is that Amsoil's products have always been great. I even have one amazing story from one of my own customers about the toughness of their 30W oil in a John Deere tractor.

I don't think you will go wrong using almost any Amsoil lubricant.

 

Actually it is the other way around.

I still prefer Redline but would use AMSOIL before Jokil 1.

 

Actually, neither one is crap. Crap is warm, brown, usually solid, though sometimes a lumpy liquid, and smells really bad. It also is not a very good lubricant for automobile engines, but can be quite slippery if stepped in while fresh.

Nice of you guys to contribute some useful information.

I've used M1 since, uh, how about 1976? I had a high performance VW bug (can you say oxymoron?) and used to put about 10k miles a year on it, and only changed the oil once a year, at re-build time. After 9 months of normal driving, street racing, and serious autocrossing, the engine looked as clean as it did when it was put together the previous winter. Of course clean isn't everything, but it never blew up either, even when garnering me an FTD at a Corvette Club autocross in New Orleans.

That was back when M1 was advertised as being capable of extending oil change intervals. That recommendation was based on the drastic decrease in by-products (acids and such) generated by M1 compared to organic oils. I think they stopped making that recommendation when car dealers started blaming engine failures on the "extended oil change intervals not compliant with manufacturers' requirements". I doubt the problem was M1, but it was not worth the legal hassle.

Now manufacturers routinely say 7500 miles for oil change intervals, after organic lubricants have decreased the performance gap between them and synthetics. I believe synthetics are better than organics, if only because of better temperature stability and lower by-products, but I have no idea if there is any significant difference between brands of synthetic.

 

Quote:

The Honda dealers and most other dealers around here use Amsoil.

I took mine in for the 15k checkup (even though I'm only at 14k) and they use Penzoil...