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Best Year S2K - Everything Considered

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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 01:09 PM
  #41  
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06+ have airbag sensors. make it harder to fit an aftermarket seat on the passanger side, and the exhaust was revised so certain ones do not fit
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 01:37 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by rosario717
Here's my 2 cents worth considering Ive been selling hondas for the past 10 years and currently own an 06ap2. First of all the ap1 are known for blowing their rearend real quick if you rip the hell out of the car on a normal basis. If you dont drag race it ever then you'll be fine with either one. In turn the ap2 has a reinforced reareand and a CDV (clutch delay valve) which some people hate cause you cant chirp the gears like the ap1 but its designed to purposely make the clutch slip whenever the rear is in shock aka slamming gears at wot to keep the diffs from being damaged in the long run. I guess Honda figured its alot less expensive to replace a burnt clutch instead of the differential. The ap1 revs upto 9000 vs 8500 ap2 but slightly more low end power. The ap1 is a bit wilder and better as far as fun factor while the ap2 is more refined so it's personal preference. The vsa aka traction control on the ap2 can be turned on and off at your discretion but can save your ass in the rain if youre not careful since all s2ks are tail happy like a dog in heat lol its simply harcore vs refinement in my book. As far as looks most people tend to like the ap2 wheels,bumpers,and lights more but its personal taste. Goodluck its not an easy decision but you'll be fine either way
Not planning on racing it. I just want something more exciting. So the rear diff shouldn't be an issue for me. I'm more open to the lower revs because of the increase in power throughout the RPMs. I'm really just sitting on whether or not I should get VSA.

Originally Posted by JackS
If your not on a budget get an '09. The final year will be the top o the line for S2000's and will contain all the OEM factory tweeks that lesser years will be lacking in some way. BTW, I own an '06 and if I were to ever trade, It'd be for an '09.
I'm on a budget, and I think anything after 06 or 07 would be out of my range. I get what your saying and that's how it usually is regarding changes coming in the final year of production.

Originally Posted by RedCelica
Originally Posted by SeanK325' timestamp='1313819598' post='20896671
[quote name='RedCelica' timestamp='1313814130' post='20896546']
Just did a kbb.com estimate on a '06 vs '05 @ 40,000 miles in excellent condition:

'06: $21,805
'05: 20,540

$1265 diff...
We all know kbb doesn't adjust for real market value, especially by region. I never sell, nor buy cars based on kbb.
Well dealerships do :/

How about what banks use...NADA value

'06: $22,225
'05: $20,675

$1550 diff.
[/quote]

I didn't know dealerships use NADA. I wasn't planning on going that route unless something spectacular came up. I usually like to buy from the owners since I can get a better feel for how the car was taken care of, aside from paying the higher costs from a dealership.

Originally Posted by wadzii
if you want one to molest and beat the crap out of get the cheapest one you can find.

if you want a nice, comfortable car that you arent going to do alot of work to and want to keep for a while.. get an 06 up. .they are much nicer cars than the older ones.

I bought a cheap 01 b/c i knew it would be apart in the garage more than it wasnt. When i hit the lotto i'm buying an 06+ to drive instead of my civic.
Not going to rape the car lol. Mainly looking for a daily driver that has a lot of kick to it. I've been after this car for a few years now.

Originally Posted by JLUDE
I'll have to agree that the 2006 is the best car due to the improvements and ease of tuning.

The best value is the 2002. You can buy a mint 2002 for $6,000+ less than a 2006 with similar miles. $6,000 buys a lot of mods or new living room furniture and that 57" LED TV you've been wanting. 2002 was the first year of improvements the largest of which was a glass rear window, aluminum pedals and better looking console.
I have noticed the best value years are 02. Seeing as how it's the same as 03, but you have an older car and the market adjusts for that.

Originally Posted by importrule
dbw has a noticeable lag on the initial throttle response when switching gears when comparing to cable throttles.

but, you will get used to the lag as time goes on. in the long run, you will adapt to the lag and won't notice anything until you drive a cable throttled car.

the programmable ecu in the 06+ is probably the best feature if you're into modifying the s. at the same time, due to the different floors between the 00-05 and the 06+, some exhausts will rub and rattle against the frame.

in summary, if you planning on keeping it stock, 04-05. if not, 06+ and be careful with exhaust choices or 00-03 if you want to save money.
I won't be modifying the engine in any sort of way, so the ECU's are a non-issue for me. The furthest I would go is the suspension because I'm a sucker for cars that handle well. I plan on keeping the rest stock, for the most part. Not planning on getting an exhaust either. My brother just got a "modified exhaust" ticket and I'm just not into the Invidia style where the entire block heard you coming.
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 04:09 PM
  #43  
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Whether it is an AP1 or an AP2, the only thing that really matters is that you are happy with the car. The AP1 and AP2 are both fantastic cars; for me it's all about the condition of the car I’m buying. I just bought an '05 w/ 16,000 miles, and the car is like new. I'm so happy that I found this particular car. Know yourself, and know what you want before you buy (and stick with it) or you may be unhappy with your compromise later on.
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ThomCat
Whether it is an AP1 or an AP2, the only thing that really matters is that you are happy with the car. The AP1 and AP2 are both fantastic cars; for me it's all about the condition of the car I’m buying. I just bought an '05 w/ 16,000 miles, and the car is like new. I'm so happy that I found this particular car. Know yourself, and know what you want before you buy (and stick with it) or you may be unhappy with your compromise later on.
Quoted for truth. I guess I forgot it doesn't necessarily matter what year it is because I care deeply about the condition. I've learned my lesson and regretted purchasing certain cars. I'm not making that mistake again.
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 05:19 PM
  #45  
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dealerships will use kbb b/c it's usually a higher price than NADA. Credit unions and some banks will use NADA values to max. their loan amounts to minimize risk.
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 05:52 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by rosario717
Here's my 2 cents worth considering Ive been selling hondas for the past 10 years and currently own an 06ap2. First of all the ap1 are known for blowing their rearend real quick if you rip the hell out of the car on a normal basis. If you dont drag race it ever then you'll be fine with either one. In turn the ap2 has a reinforced reareand and a CDV (clutch delay valve) which some people hate cause you cant chirp the gears like the ap1 but its designed to purposely make the clutch slip whenever the rear is in shock aka slamming gears at wot to keep the diffs from being damaged in the long run. I guess Honda figured its alot less expensive to replace a burnt clutch instead of the differential. The ap1 revs upto 9000 vs 8500 ap2 but slightly more low end power.
Fwiw, its not that the CDV makes the clutch slip, its that it keeps the driver from "slamming" the gears faster than a set rate, thus preventing driveline shock. The diff reinforcement is minimal AP1 to Ap2, but blown diffs dropped significantly with the CDV and AP2.

00-01 - original
02-03 - better ECU, fixed early year problems, some better features
04-05 - first major update, general improvement, and power band dropped 1k rpm with more low end power
06-07 - DBW, VSA
08-09 - general improvements, CR version

Every two years the power output seems to go up a bit too. I would say get the newest MY you can.
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 05:50 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Saki GT
Every two years the power output seems to go up a bit too. I would say get the newest MY you can.
Over the 10 years of production the power output did go up slightly but 10 whp is not a huge difference especially since the car's weight went up a bit as well.

The newer cars have some nice improvements but engine output is not the deciding factor...it's the other upgrades that make the newer cars better.
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 06:40 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by NFR_AP2
04-05
I agree.
AP2 without dbw, vsa, drl, tpms, etc.
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 11:56 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by s2kPA
Originally Posted by NFR_AP2' timestamp='1314044906' post='20902588
04-05
I agree.
AP2 without dbw, vsa, drl, tpms, etc.
06-07 don't have TMPS either, VSA is a button away from being off, DBW isn't noticeable, and 04-05 can't be reflashed
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 12:13 PM
  #50  
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I guess there's no single answer. It all just depends on your intentions.
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