Richard-

Instead of using bubble wrap and foil, why not just go down to Home Depot and pick up some R-19 Fiberglass insulation and some metal tape? Probably insulates 10x better and is not as hard to put together.

Just my $.02.

John

 

I actually bought some of that R 19 stuff (it has foil only on one side) but found it a bit stiff and bulky to work with. And impossible for use to wrap the intake tube to the throttlebody. And this stuff is thicker, and it intefrered with the operation of the flapper valve to the side pipe which opens from the bottom up.

In this mod, the insulation is a secondary "icing on the cake" type thing, EXCEPT that which is over the radiator top under the CAI part of the rad plate. And use of the R 19 stuff there would defeat the purpose of getting more cool air to the intake due to its thickness, which would choke off the intake opening.

And BTW, for those who want to try this, don't forget the "sidepipe and flapper valve" on the left side of the gutted airbox. The stock s2k intake has a cross-section of only 7 sq. in. and this remains true with the CAI mounted on it. In contrast, my Mercedes C 320 has an intake cross-section of over 20 sq. in.. The 3" sidepipe has a cross section of another 7 sq. in. giving me a total of 14 sq. in. So the sidepipe, IMO, plays a big role in unleashing more low rpm torque.

And there is virtually no chance of hydrolock here, unless one drives at a good speed into standing water 11" deep, in which case, the air scoop MIGHT drive water into the airbox. (Who'd do that anyway?) But as a failsafe move, I raised the filter element up in the box so it does not sit on the box floor, which would leave room for some water in the box before it reached the filter.

Thanks,
Richard

 

Can you explain how you fab. picture # 2, where to buy, and cost.

I take that's a Drop in K&N right?

THanks for the help!

BC

 

I also covered the top of the radiator/under cai opening with foil wrap. Then, I cut me a piece of sheet metal and layed it on top of the foil and into the airbox opening a little. This way I could mash the foil down a little more and I would have more of an uninterrupted flow into the airbox. (less air escaping around the radiator)

 

You can tear some of the fiberglass off to make it thinner. That reduces it to ~R-13. If you also leave something heavy sitting on it overnight, the stuff compresses rather well. It can be a PITA to deal with, but probably provides better insulation.

You could also just buy some pre-fab A/C 5" ducting. Already comes insulated and everything. Just slide it over the intake tube. I think that stuff have to be special ordered, though.

I would also think that you would want to use something less conductive than foil....say a plastic based wrap.

I am just picky.

for some ingenuity, though.

john

 

back cracker:

Pic 2 shows the airscoop mounted between the bottom grill bar, and then up and back to the radiator brace right below the intake from the CAI. It is made of sheet aluminum. Its width at the top is the same as the width of the CAI intake. The width at the bottom is a little more. Plus, on the sides of the scoop the aluminum is flared out about 3/4 ". At the bottom, it is also flared out to fit on the grill bar. It is attached with double sided tape and is also bolted/screwed in at both top and bottom. There is a convenient existing screw in the grill bar, and a usable existing hole in the radiator brace in the right location. The scoop is painted black. Yes, that is a drop in K&N filter. I used some plastic piping to raise the left (smaller) side of the bottom of the filter for more air availability, and to prevent any remote possibility of hydrolock as I said above.

SlidinS2K:

I think we did the same thing, but in different ways. My CAI is also sealed from the intake point between grill and radiator and the stock horn. Except in my case, I used the R13 double foil stuff as the floor, and sealed the CAI intake bottom with tape. I also sealed the attachment to the horn with foam insulating tape. And I sealed that opening for the pax side radiator bracket.

Thanks,
Richard

 

where can I get one of those carbon fiber thingy for my ap2??? And is it hard to install?

 

John:

The foil sides on the R 13 insulation is separated by the dead air space created by the "bubble wrap" in between. This, I believe, eliminates the conductivity foil would normally have.

I like your idea about the pre-made 5" insulated AC duct to cover the intake tube. I am not satisfied with that part of my mod, from an appearance standpoint. If I got some of that pre-fab ducting or the intake tube, how would I get it over the fittings that stick out of the stock intake tube?

Thanks,
Richard

 

S2kv:

Look under Sponsor Group Buys on this board. There is a thread selling the AUT brand, and another thread selling the Garage Defend brand. The AUT is about $170 and the Garage Defend is around $290. The Garage Defend is claimed to be of better materials and workmanship, but I have the AUT and have no problems with it.

The hardest part about the installation is removal of the stock radiator baffle at the lower front edge. Very hard to get one's hands in there to remove the fasteners. You may have to do like I did and remove these fasteners with a long-handled chisel and a hammer (which ruins the fasteners). After that it is a breeze.

Thanks,
Richard

 

I think the pre-fab ducting has a diameter of 6-7" on the outside and 5-6" on the inside. It should be big enough to just slide over the fittings. Just slide it over, and slice the insulation where needed for fittings to penetrate.

John