Richard,read the above posts carefully.
Xviper was not talking about S2X post.!!!
See Comptech intake for sale .!!!

 

Thanks Emil.

Yes, Richard, it was "tudernos" who is a GUEST, spamming and hijacking this thread.

 

:delete:

 

hahahahaha...great ideas fellas.

When I bought my s2k. I just could not help but to stare at the engine...."what to do,what to do" Just couldn't leave it alone...I thought I would be labeled an idiot (ricey) for mods like this....

Then I added a snorkel, hollowed out SPECIFIC areas only in the airbox, dremmel holes for extra tubing on sides of airbox other than the snorkel. My modified side snorkel draws air from the side hole from the passenger headerlamp hole and the same pipe further extends to the front...alongside the spoonstyle snorkel.

all looking JUST LIKE STOCK black hard plastic etc. Not laughing at yalls ideas just thought it was funny seeing peeps jimmyrigg shiet up like meeh? I thougt all yallz were the RICH guys and buying only authentic stuff.....as for me...whatever is tasteful and saves me a buck!

hehehehee...payce!

 

xviper:

Sorry I misunderstood your post. I agree -- if somebody wants to advertise on this board they should just fork out $20 for a membership. They's probably sell their stuff, and learn much here too.

S2Rice:

Nothing in the mods described in this thread were "cheap stuff." No dryer vent pipe. No duct tape. The "bits" pretty much consist of custom fabricated sheet aluminum, industrial grade pipe, the carbon fiber AUT rad plate and CAI. K&N filter. Of course the sheet insulation, hinge, etc. are Home Depot, as they don't sell such things at "mod shops." And the flapper valve was made from the aluminum in a flattened out beer can, but not to save money. This was the lightest and strongest aluminum I could find.

All in all, the whole thing cost a little over $250, and I have a bunch of material left over. I could have purchased any CAI on the market without hurting myself financially. But I didn't want to do so, as I have driven s2ks equipped with most of these, and fell that they fall short.

Thanks,
Richard

 

If the ram-air effect is great enough to close the flapper valve (and break the flimsy 1st flapper valve), it sounds like this mod actually develops some level of positive manifold pressure at speed.

Any possibility of tapping a boost gauge to let us know exactly how much pressure builds with speed? (if any measurable amount?)

I'd be really interested to see this.

 

I wish I knew how to do this, and what kind of gauge to get. If I knew this and had the gauge, I could experienment around with various different kind of air scoops for the best results. It would have to be a "stop gauge" --- meaning that it would continue to register its highest reading even after I stopped the car to read the gauge.

Anybody have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Richard

 

OK, I tested the flapper valve today.

1. Does it open during idle?
Yes it does!

2. Does it close when air enters the airbox?
Slams close!

Richard,
If you want to make sure yours closes and you have access to a leaf blower or maybe even an air compressor. Get someone to blow air into the scoop. Disconnect your sidepipe and look through the hole.

Also, is your scoop flat? (any bends)

I would also like to monitor the air flow and get results from different scoops.

 

To monitor the positive press.in the airbox,you will need a very sensitive guage,as this will not be in pounds per square inches;remember,this is not a S/C.
Your guage would have to be graduated,in "inches of water".
And this would have to be done at speed,not at idle with a leaf blower;don't forget,your engine is actually an "air pump",and it pulls quite a bit more C.F,M.of air,at speed,than at idle,reducing the positive press.


S2Rice,if you want some "Bling" stuff,be patient,my little finger tells me,that a C.F.OEM air box lid,will be available PRETTY SOON.!!! Matching the cooling plate!!!
-Emil.

 

Well, guys, remember that I'm not selling a supercharger here. In fact I'm not selling anything! But I agree that positive air pressure does develope within the air box at speed, which can't be a bad thing, since it is furnishing cool air.

My airscoop has no bends in it. As it originates at the bottom from the bottom grill bar and runs to the radiator brace, I found no bends were needed on my AP1.

I would like to find an air pressure gauge to simply place in the airbox that would show psi above ambient, and lock at the highest reading. Then, when spring comes again, I could experiment with scoop design to get the best effect. From my "rusty" college math, I would not be surprised if this thing generates 1 to 1.5 psi at 80 mph in 6th, below VTEC. Yet, when I am in 1st above VTEC, I suspect that ram air in not sufficient to close the flapper valve, as air is needed from that source too. But as cool air is thus available, that's not bad. The neat thing I find about the flapper valve is that it closes when ram air exceeds engine draw, and opens when engine draw exceeds ram air.

Thanks,
Richard