My parking brake is always lose (it wouldn't even hold my car on my driveway). So the other day while I was at the dealership, I asked them how do you tighten the parking brake? He said it is a "self-adjusting" mechanism. He said while going backwards, slowly pull up on the brake; or pull up and down several times, and it will tighten up.

I was a little skeptical to do it (I don't know it just didn't sound healthy to pull the brake while driving) But I tried it, and it worked. My brake is now tight the way it should be.

Some of you probably already knew this, but I figured many (like me) didn't so I'm posting about it.

 

I didn't know that! I read the manual (twice) and don't recall seeing that in there. Thanks for the tip P.A.K.!!

Mark

 

There is a nut under the console for adjustment (which is how I adjusted mine). I did not know of any auto adjustment and don't recall reading about it anywhere. Or seeing anything when I had the brakes apart.. could that action screw the pads closer to the rotors? Anyone else research this?

 

Mark, I should point out that the mechanic said to SLOWLY go in reverse. If you pull the brake while doing 38 mph you will probably puke in your car from the G's.

 

According to the shop manual, parking brake adjustment is done by tightening the adjusting nut under the console cover. The only ratcheting mechanism I am familiar with is the actual screw mount of the rear calipers, but once screwed out the brake pads would be in closer proximity to the rotors at all time, not just for the hand brake. The procedure you were given may be effective (it is common with drum brakes), but I am not sure if it has negative side afftects. I do know that is not what is documented.

 

John,

Wes just installed a set of rear brake pads over the weekend and noticed that his E-brake was engaging sooner. When was the last time you checked your rear brake pads?

 

I don't actually know the answer to this (which I hate to admit) but here are a few things. The adjuster nut would only be to adjust the cable since there is not any tension on the brakes when the handle is down (nor should there be.)

Because of the nature of screw type adjusters, though, I believe you need only pull and release the handle several times to adjust it. Backing up, I think, does nothing in this type of application.

Worked for me when I replaced my pads.

 

I don't have the manual with me now, but I'm pretty sure it says that the e-brake is properly adjusted if it takes less than 9 clicks to reach the full-up position. I can only do a max of 6 clicks with mine - and that takes a lot of effort. However, I've found that if the car's on a slope, the e-brake usually won't hold until I'm on the last (or last-but-one) notch.