F20 sat for 4 years, what to freshen up?
#1
F20 sat for 4 years, what to freshen up?
Hey guys
Just bought a very low mileage F20
Car it came out of was totaled in a rear end collision
Motor was sitting as a spare motor for four years in a garage
I'm thinking of replacing all main seals/gaskets and upgrading to AP2 valve retainers
I was told I should change timing chain, guides, and tensioner. Is this necessary?
Anything else I should keep in mind?
Just bought a very low mileage F20
Car it came out of was totaled in a rear end collision
Motor was sitting as a spare motor for four years in a garage
I'm thinking of replacing all main seals/gaskets and upgrading to AP2 valve retainers
I was told I should change timing chain, guides, and tensioner. Is this necessary?
Anything else I should keep in mind?
#2
I wouldn't worry about head gasket. Main seal maybe if you're extra awesome and don't gall the mating surfaces. I'd remove the spark plugs and shoot some fogging oil in the cylinders and rotate the engine assembly to move it about. Vtec solenoid gasket should be fine unless you see leaking along the block.
be sure to keep your FSM on hand.
darcy
be sure to keep your FSM on hand.
darcy
#4
I would take the valve cover off at a minimum and inspect, I seen something similar and have found rust on the cams right where the oil cap is. I would pull the oil pan and inspect the bottom end, bore scope the cylinders. all before its in the car. alot easier outside the car to fix any issues
#5
Community Organizer
I have a spare F20C sitting on a stand in the garage as well, been there for a few years and not sure what I will do if I ever have a use for it. Very interested in the comments in this thread.
#6
Registered User
If you want to store a engine for a long time, it will be the best to fill it up with oil completly and add a lot of fogging oil, engine oil or even vaseline throught the spark plug holes. And, of course, close every opening at least with oiled rags. Or, better, with sheet metall and sealant. Store it in a dry area.
The engine parts inside are mostly bare metall, high grade alloy and slowly rusting, but nevertheless, they need oil as rust prevent in long term.
For storage over many years i would recomend to remove the camshafts, so that the valve springs are decompressed and the valves are closed.
This maybe seems a to much and overboard, but:
I know for sure that sometimes the pistonrings rusted to the cylinder walls in stored engines after a few years. This is not a problem with Hondas FRM cylindrs, but....
I have seen how carefull aricraft engine parts gets packed, threatet with anti corrosion agents and selaed airtight. And that is done for a reason!
And i have seen Motorcycles stored away for years wihtout any preventive work and the bad result.
Better save than sorrry. Better 3 hours of cheap work than a damaged spare engine.
The engine parts inside are mostly bare metall, high grade alloy and slowly rusting, but nevertheless, they need oil as rust prevent in long term.
For storage over many years i would recomend to remove the camshafts, so that the valve springs are decompressed and the valves are closed.
This maybe seems a to much and overboard, but:
I know for sure that sometimes the pistonrings rusted to the cylinder walls in stored engines after a few years. This is not a problem with Hondas FRM cylindrs, but....
I have seen how carefull aricraft engine parts gets packed, threatet with anti corrosion agents and selaed airtight. And that is done for a reason!
And i have seen Motorcycles stored away for years wihtout any preventive work and the bad result.
Better save than sorrry. Better 3 hours of cheap work than a damaged spare engine.
#7
I tend to agree with the above poster.
any engine that has sat for years, especially if its ever had organic oil in it. I pull all the bearing caps, clean, and add assembly lube. Lube the cylinder walls, clean the head, and use gm top engine cleaner, to refresh the piston tops.
Everyone is gonna have their own method. but unless it is fogged or filled like above poster suggested. The best method of inspection and prep is to inspect and relube the rotating assembly without dropping the pistons out(dont spin them either). Might as well replace the thrust washer while you are in there as well.
Doing a 95% tear down, cleaning, replacing thrust washer, and front and rear seals. You should have a really good idea of the health of the motor before it even goes into the car.
any engine that has sat for years, especially if its ever had organic oil in it. I pull all the bearing caps, clean, and add assembly lube. Lube the cylinder walls, clean the head, and use gm top engine cleaner, to refresh the piston tops.
Everyone is gonna have their own method. but unless it is fogged or filled like above poster suggested. The best method of inspection and prep is to inspect and relube the rotating assembly without dropping the pistons out(dont spin them either). Might as well replace the thrust washer while you are in there as well.
Doing a 95% tear down, cleaning, replacing thrust washer, and front and rear seals. You should have a really good idea of the health of the motor before it even goes into the car.
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