"Doctor, it hurts when I do this."

"Well, then don't do that."

 

"smooth is fast" ...word of advice from someone yesterday, goes well with what you guys are saying.

The Evo Auto-X school is actually the one I intend to take. Unfortunately it's on May 31st, and checks are non-refundable after May 1st. There's also only one more spot left. That means I have to make a decision quick - if I signed up, I'd have to try to fix the FR LCA (HAP recycling has the part) or whatever is causing my alignment problem, or just work with what I've got if I can't get it done in time. Not an ideal situation. The other option is to get the parts / fix the car first and hope that no one has taken that last spot or someone drops out....

Also, I'm not a total n00b to auto-x, limit driving, and know a *tiny* bit about vehicle dynamics. I used to auto-x my mildly built Integra (was VERY comfortable driving this car hard), and have dual driven a couple AWD, RWD, and FWD cars. It was easier for me to spot ways to improve and then actually try them w/the Integra. However, the S2000 is a new world for me... which is why I want to take this class - endless area for improvement and it'd be helpful for someone to point out where to start. I think either way I have A LOT of learning to do about veh. dynamics in general.

I think I'm going to crack open Carroll Smith's "Drive To Win" soon here. I've had it for a while now, but with any book, it takes a lot of energy for me to start reading, haha.

Input from seasoned S2K owners thanks

 

That's a good book, but not the one you need for this sort of thing. I recommend:

"Speed Secrets" by Ross Bentley
"Going Faster!" by Carl Lopez

"Drive To Win" is more about how to be a race car driver than it is about how to drive a race car. There is a difference....

 

Ahh okay. It's just one I have laying around from my Formula SAE days (University of Washington FSAE FTW!). I'll look into your guys' many recommendations. I'm glad the season is just starting up...

 

I think Bob Varsha said it last weekend when referring to somes teams difficulty setting up in Spain.

 

Hahaha. I knew I'd heard it somewhere recently.

 

My 04 slides the rear on factory bridgestones with 3K miles inbetween 1st and 2nd, no matter what temperature anything else. My car wants to kill me.

 

See, it's not just me. Haha, just watch out for those curbs! You never win in a fight with them. This car also has no problem putting someone on their @$$. I recently spoke to a friend that spun and wrecked his 2nd S2000. It just demands respect.

If I feel the desire to hammer it through 1st and 2nd, I've learned to just slow down the shift, or at least factor in all the variables (road surface, ambient temp, tire temp, etc.). You can shift it kinda fast and slip the clutch a little, and it'll keep the car behaved. No need to bang gears unless you're at the strip. It's not like that extra quick shift would show up on your auto-x time either and it's usually more strategic to shift early, depending on the course.

Just dropped a check in the mail for the Evo Phase I school and ordered an LCA. I hope the starts align!

 

[QUOTE=ALFYonso,Apr 30 2008, 10:05 PM]If I feel the desire to hammer it through 1st and 2nd, I've learned to just slow down the shift, or at least factor in all the variables (road surface, ambient temp, tire temp, etc.).

 

On your shift out of first what's your order?

If you go off the gas, then clutch, shift, back on gas you'll step it out on cold tires every time (or at least I can). Practice pulling it out of first before you even touch the clutch. Lift, neutral, clutch, 2nd, gas. Try it in a gear like third while cruising. Roll off the throttle and gently pull down until it pops out into neutral. Same principle in 1st at WOT. That'll keep you from banging around and upsetting the rear.

Also, you're going to have to do the 1-2 shift rather slowly. There's so much momentum from the gargantuan sized fly wheel Honda stuck in the AP2s it just isn't possible to make a clean shift quickly. Removing the CDV will help, but the revs are still going to be up way too high. That's also a benefit of lifting before you disengage the clutch. If you lift and clutch at the same time the RPMs will typically raise 50-100 rpms. Even with out the CDV the AP2 pressure plate isn't really capable of quick shifts. If you're off by 500 rpms it's just going to slip and burn up in short order.