pay the extra cash and get a good jack.. and get some jack stands too. i have two short stories to convince you..

some friends were working on a car propped up by craftsman hydrolic floor jack w/o a stand for a few hours.. they went inside to take a break & grab some brews.. and when they came back the jack was totally deflated and there was oil everywhere.

as i was changing my oil this weekend to prepare for the upcoming good weather, i propped my car up using my $79.97 walmart 2 ton'er floor jack along with some jack stands. i was under there waiting for the remainder of the oil to drain, when suddenly the car started dropping. i tried to scurry from underneath it and my head got to right where the lip of the bumper wouldve hit, right when the jack stands took over. needless to say, it scared the living sh*t out of me! if it werent for those jackstands, i wouldve had a more aerodynamic head, or perhaps not here at all.

final destination?

i plan on ordering a flat jack in the near future, but i'll always use jackstands whenever i work under my car.

 

I like to use the jackstands to support the weight of the car. It's OK to have the floor jack under the car, also, but the weight of the car should be borne by the jack stands.

Before I ever get under a vehicle, I set it on the jackstands and shake it hard to make sure that it is secure. I can replace something mechanical, but I can't replace me.

 

I think it would be very hard to meet the requirements set by the original poster.
-able to reach the central front jacking point.
-if car has front lip OR lowered.
-without having to drive the car up onto blocks.
If you could find such a jack, your stroke length will be very limited till the car got raised a bit.

 

Yes, of course always use jack stands when working under the car. I sometimes cheat when changing brake pads and use the jack alone, but I'm cautious of where I put my hands and feet.

And when using jack stands, lower the car onto the stands as soon as you place them. Don't let the car just fall on them in an emergency.

I always used to use block ramps and the front/rear center jacking points. Jacking from the side, however, is just much easier and faster, and still gets two wheels of the ground at the same time.

 

AC Hydraulic makes outstanding jacks that are well worth the money. I haven't used the Harbor Freight jack and while people here seem happy with them, Harbor Freight in general has a well deserved rep for selling poor quality goods. I would not want to risk damaging my car (or myself!) by having the oil seal blow.

I recommend two AC hydraulic models: the DK20Q or DK13HLQ. The "Q" in both denotes a quick lift pedal which is a handy time saver. The DK13HLQ's height is 4" for the first 16" of reach--if anything's going to reach your center jack point then this is the one that will do it. Get the rubber jack pad too. I have the DK20Q and at 60 lbs it isn't too heavy to lug around for track days--but only just.

While you're at it I also recommend AC Hydraulic's 3000N jackstands. The circular base pads distribute weight evenly and they even have a rubber pad option to protect your car. The 3000N's 13" min height is one of the lowest I've seen.

You can get both at http://www.ultimategarage.com/acjacks.html for a reasonable price. You might find them slightly cheaper elsewhere but Steve D is a great guy who deserves the business.

 

Has anyone tried the ridiculously expensive one from Griot's
"With a 2 3/4" saddle clearance, our 2 ton floor jack has the lowest profile in the world yet is capable of lifting 4,000 lbs. to a height of 18 1/4". In a jam? Take the saddle out and your lifting point is just 1 3/4"! Notice the side rails, too. (Most jacks have side rails that go up immediately, so no matter how low the jack pad, the jack is useless if you can't get it under the car due to high side rails!) This floor jack has a hidden central internal wheel that allows you to pivot and slide the jack in any direction before you raise the saddle. This eliminates sliding the jack in and out from under the vehicle when positioning it. The T-bar handle also makes the descents more controllable. (Ever try to lower a jack with a "round tube" handle while your hands are greasy?) With a simple turn, the jack lowers the load smoothly; let go and the spring loaded handle automatically stops the descent. No more fussing with a hard-to-control handle! The convenient foot pedal also allows you to pump up the saddle quickly to the lift point, then use the T-bar handle from there. For safety, the jack is also fitted with a safety valve within the hydraulics to prevent overloading"