So a std floor jack with a hockey puck on the lift surface and setting the weld on top of the puck will work? No bending of the weld?

 

Just read this from the beginning again - and I guess I'm still missing the point. What is wrong with jacking from the front reinforced point below the side mirror? I do that regularly when I'm too lazy to drive onto board so I can fit the jack under the front. If Honda thought that the frame was too weak to lift from that point, then wouldn't they have put the reinforced points towards the middle?

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with using the middle point to jack - obviously others here are doing it without an issue. Just not understanding what problem this solves for the S2000. What am I missing?

 

Imagine you have a garage which is closed and you can't fit a jack in the front or in the rear. Now you have to use the sides of the car. With one point in the middle you can raise the front and rear sides at the same rate and place jack stands at the reinforced points.

 

Just tried lifting from the front and both front and rear rise the same amount. It might not be clear from this picture, but the tires are 1' off the ground.




If you only want to put the jacks under the reinforced points, then I see the value of jacking at the midpoint. But won't that damage the paint and become a potential point for rust?

BTW, I was pleasantly surprised that car went up level - I had expected the rear to lag behind the front. Perhaps that's due to the 11kg/11kg springs on my car? Does the rear lag behind with the stock suspension?

 

The reason I like the idea of lifting from the middle of the side rail is that it allows me to do one lift and place jack stands at the reinforced lift points, front and rear. It is quick and easy. But, I agree, I'm not going to do it if there is any risk of damage.

 

No.

 

Would this not be a better option than a piece of steel?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-Adapter-...ZZeBb4&vxp=mtr

 

Look at what I found for sale at Walmart. Geez, Walmart online is so good these days.

Slotted rubber lift pad.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Full-Size...&wl13=&veh=sem

 

When jacking one side, both ends rise together because our chassis is so stiff. On other cars the whole chassis flexes, so the other end lags behind.

I would not jack on the rocker, except at the designated double reinforced jack areas, at front and rear side. Otherwise you risk bending or folding over that section of the rocker.

Also, putting jack stands on front and rear of one side, then jacking the front, is a recipe for car falling off stands.

As the car lifts, its rotating in an arc, with its pivot point being the jack stand points. The trolley jack at the front center now has to deal with that jack contact point rotating as car raises, and the tire contact points will resist the intial rotation, as they won't want to scrub sideways on the pavement as car starts to raise. Everything is going to be pulling and torquing and fighting.

Instead, one jack at front side jack point. Raise car just enough to get other trolley under center front jack point. Jack frojt of car to lowest height of jack stands. Place front jack stands at sides.

Now go jack center rear to height you need, place rear stands. Now go back to front and finish jacking and raise stands to needed height.

You don't want car tipping one side high, other side too low, lest it slide off stands. If you need to go high, do it it steps, a little in front, all the way on back, the rest at the front.

 

Sorry for my late reply. I got some 2X6 boards with a 45 degree angle cut on one end and fastened some of that rubber-type shelf liner material to minimize any position shift once I start driving up on them. The wood is stained, so they look respectable. Then I can slide my “low profile” lift jack to the front Center lift point. A few pumps and the car is high enough for my 6-ton jack stands. Move to the rear and repeat. The car is now on four jack stands with only two lifts.