Grinding Gears
Originally Posted by specialk22tt,Jan 3 2006, 11:28 PM
Why do you say >70 mph for 6th is boggin your car down?
Bogging the engine is when you are trying to make it propel the car at a point in the rpm band where the torque is inadequate to do the job easily.
Moving the car along at a steady state at 70 mph (or even at 50 mph) in 6th gear will not bog the engine in any way UNLESS you attempt to accelerate with heavy throttle or go up a steep incline. In these cases, you are asking the engine to come up with more power and torque than what it can produce at that rpm to do a job that requires that extra output. There is plenty of power and torque to cruise at that rpm at that speed in 6th. If you find yourself going up a steep incline or in need of accelerating briskly, THEN, downshift so you don't risk bogging. Each driving scenario has its own characteristics and requirements. Your job as the driver is to understand what's needed to perform which task.
For example, I could easily run at 1000 rpm in 6th gear at 20 mph without doing any harm to the engine if I'm just coasting down an incline and not trying to accelerate beyond what gravity would take me. The engine isn't putting out that much in this scenario but, it doesn't take much power and torque to do this.
Originally Posted by specialk22tt,Jan 3 2006, 11:47 PM
Does anyone double clutch every gear all the time? Even with the syncros, is it still better to double clutch?
Double clutching is only necessary to defeat the 1st gear blocker ring like when you are trying to engage 1st from too high a road speed. In this case, you also better be rev matching or you'll be in for a really big surprise.
Originally Posted by xviper,Jan 4 2006, 01:55 AM
NO, double clutching is not required in a modern day manual transmission. The syncros do the job adequately and is built for that purpose.
Double clutching is only necessary to defeat the 1st gear blocker ring like when you are trying to engage 1st from too high a road speed. In this case, you also better be rev matching or you'll be in for a really big surprise.
Double clutching is only necessary to defeat the 1st gear blocker ring like when you are trying to engage 1st from too high a road speed. In this case, you also better be rev matching or you'll be in for a really big surprise.
Originally Posted by specialk22tt,Jan 4 2006, 12:03 AM
So would the only necessary time to double clutch is my previous scenario (2nd redlined to 3rd) to slow down the countershaft down enough to safely put it into the sequential gear? Or are there other necessary times to double clutch? I haven't taken a tranny apart so I'm trying to educate myself. Thanks again for all the help.
Double clutching is predominantly for a high speed downshift into 1st. Since it's not wise to skip shift, I don't like to dwell too much on the "proper way" to do it. It's best to just not do it at all.
I know it's not required--but once I got in the habit of double clutching with my last car, I can't stop. It just feels better when I'm downshifting. Sliding into a lower gear is like butter; no resistance whatsoever.
Plus it impresses the ladies.
Plus it impresses the ladies.
Originally Posted by Will,Jan 3 2006, 10:18 PM
I know it's not required--but once I got in the habit of double clutching with my last car, I can't stop. It just feels better when I'm downshifting. Sliding into a lower gear is like butter; no resistance whatsoever.
Plus it impresses the ladies.
Plus it impresses the ladies.

Originally Posted by RED MX5,Jan 3 2006, 10:30 PM
Why let out the clutch fully in every gear? You get the same result by pushing against the synchros in each gear (in sequence) until the transmission is ready to slip into gear, and then INSTEAD of actually engaging the gear, moving on to the next set of synchros. Repeat until you get to the sixth gear synchros, and only then actually engage a gear and let out the clutch. The damage is done by skipping synchros, not by skipping the gears. Better still, just get in the habit of rev matching and double-clutching when needed. Drive a car with straight cut gears and no synchros for a while. 
The important thing (I believe) is to understand what's going on inside the transmission, and learning to work with it. There is not ONE right way to do things, but there are plenty of wrong ways. A 2-6 shift can be done in a number of ways that will not do any more damage than any other shift, but it's also a good way to screw up the synchros if done sloppily.
How do you know if you are blowing shifts? If you get a grind and the synchros are not shot it's a major clue.

The important thing (I believe) is to understand what's going on inside the transmission, and learning to work with it. There is not ONE right way to do things, but there are plenty of wrong ways. A 2-6 shift can be done in a number of ways that will not do any more damage than any other shift, but it's also a good way to screw up the synchros if done sloppily.
How do you know if you are blowing shifts? If you get a grind and the synchros are not shot it's a major clue.

I've never known anyone who skipped gears on upshifts after owning a manual more than a month. Once you get accustom to the car, it should only take you a couple of seconds to go 2-3-4-5-6, engaging all the gears. It's not worth the strain of going 2-6. I'm not even sure how you're doing that smoothly unless you're redlining then backing WAY off the gas.
At 60mph, you're going to have next to no acceleration in 6th. If you decide
(for some reason) to redline 2nd and then hold that speed without a bunch of shifts, you'd be better to go 2-N-6 and actually line everything up.
At 60mph, you're going to have next to no acceleration in 6th. If you decide
(for some reason) to redline 2nd and then hold that speed without a bunch of shifts, you'd be better to go 2-N-6 and actually line everything up.
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