Am I reading this right that you used 1/3 a tube of the grease on the seals? I use my fingers to apply it (remove the excess with a rag) and it seems to me that a reasonable application takes very little.. I expect the tube to last many dozens of treatments. I think you want to keep them pliable, not greasy.

 

Thats a very good point...I hadn't considered how dirty the seals might be. I wonder what one might clean them with immediately prior to application of grease. If one is about to protect and saturate the seals, there shouldn't be much fear of drying them out, except for the rubber absorbing cleaner.

A very diluted solution of car-wash soap on a rag?

 

I've been using some silicone grease I got a few years back from a Dive shop. You use it when you snorkel or dive to help seal the mask to your face- especially if you have a mustache/beard.

It seems to work great. So there is one more place you can find it...any Diving shop should carry it.

-B

 

So you're saying your top now fits snugly to your beard?

 

be careful of silicone spray!!!!! if it gets[and stays] someplace that may need paint at some point, you're totally hosed.....i've seen panels stripped and prepped several times over and silicone "fisheyes" still appeared in the paint.....baaad stuff!!!

 

I use AGS Sil-Glyde, which is a silcone grease designed for o-ring assembly, "weather stripping", brake parts, brake boots & seals, etc. It is harmless to rubber. It's available at most auto parts stores. Use sparingly and apply with your finger to inner rubber seal where the top and the windshield frame meet. The biggest advantage I have found, other than the weather stripping protection, is the big difference it makes when raising the top... if you don't use it (at least on my car) it takes major strength to snap the clips; with it on, it takes no effort at all.

 

hahaha- no, but I canow take the S2000 snorkeling...if I could only keep the windows from fogging up!

-B