How many Miles is too much on a used S2K?
If it passes a comprehensive inspection, it sounds like $7K for 145K miles with all records and only 2 owners would be a acceptable deal. If the tires are in good shape, and it is 100% stock even better.
Originally Posted by JERO,Mar 18 2010, 05:25 PM
If it passes a comprehensive inspection, it sounds like $7K for 145K miles with all records and only 2 owners would be a acceptable deal. If the tires are in good shape, and it is 100% stock even better.
It's a 10 year old car with less than 15K miles/year on it. Pretty cherry IMO. I'd be more concerned with the body panels, undercarriage, paint, and interior than anything else.I wouldn't worry about the tires much. If you buy it and drive it for a few years you'll get well educated on replacing tires.
[QUOTE=EVAN&MONICA,Mar 18 2010, 06:44 PM]
"1 Million"
Awesome auto does 1,000,000 miles, retires
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/16070928/
"1 Million"
Awesome auto does 1,000,000 miles, retires
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/16070928/
I agree with what everyone is saying here. If it is completely stock and everything seems to be in working order than i would say its fine. If you know any mechanics take it over to them before you buy it and have it checked to see what they think.......... If the motor has been taken care of than i don't see why this motor cant go over 200k IMO
Just to be safe I would get a third party inspection. Compression test and maybe a leak down to make sure everything is in working order. I have an 02' with 115K on the ticker and it still runs like a champ. I beat the car to all hell but I maintain it.
Without a doubt, an engine whose driver feathers the throttle 90% of the time and never take it to over 7,000rpm is obviously going to perform flawlessly even at 160,000 miles.
But just because these engines are still running smoothly, does not mean that they can be driven as if they were new. An engine with higher mileage naturally had been through more heat cycles than the counterparts that have much less mileage. For instance, the thrust and rod bearings on an engine with 160,000 miles may still rotate smoothly. But due to possible metal fatigue and micro-fractures, these parts may perform very well until it fails. When it fails, it fails without a sign, like a time bomb. Metal fatigue of the block, pistons, crank, and bearings are usually never detected by methods such as compression and leak down tests. Engines that were driven extremely gently in the past 150,000 miles may still drive great now. But when it is subject to heat and stress, it would usually fail immediately. I hope this doesn't come as a surprise to you.
The first things I would replace on a car with 150,000 miles would be the engine oil and filter. I would then replace the spark plugs, the O2 sensor, and the waterpump and timing chain tensioner. The earlier AP1 also had problems with the waterpump pulley. This is something I would replace as well. It is probably a good idea to inspect valve clearance at this point too. A couple of very high mileage AP1 engines I worked on didn't have any valve clearance problems, so valve adjustment is not mandatory unless you confirm them to be out of spec.
A car with 150,000 miles probably have very worn dampers and springs. Many cars I work on with this kind of mileage also needed new calipers. The old one simply seized due to age.
I hope that your steering pump and rack are in good shape. In this case, switching to a high mileage formula Power Steering Fluid is probably going to help the problem. I found that the Honda Steering system takes Lucas fluid quite well.
But just because these engines are still running smoothly, does not mean that they can be driven as if they were new. An engine with higher mileage naturally had been through more heat cycles than the counterparts that have much less mileage. For instance, the thrust and rod bearings on an engine with 160,000 miles may still rotate smoothly. But due to possible metal fatigue and micro-fractures, these parts may perform very well until it fails. When it fails, it fails without a sign, like a time bomb. Metal fatigue of the block, pistons, crank, and bearings are usually never detected by methods such as compression and leak down tests. Engines that were driven extremely gently in the past 150,000 miles may still drive great now. But when it is subject to heat and stress, it would usually fail immediately. I hope this doesn't come as a surprise to you.
The first things I would replace on a car with 150,000 miles would be the engine oil and filter. I would then replace the spark plugs, the O2 sensor, and the waterpump and timing chain tensioner. The earlier AP1 also had problems with the waterpump pulley. This is something I would replace as well. It is probably a good idea to inspect valve clearance at this point too. A couple of very high mileage AP1 engines I worked on didn't have any valve clearance problems, so valve adjustment is not mandatory unless you confirm them to be out of spec.
A car with 150,000 miles probably have very worn dampers and springs. Many cars I work on with this kind of mileage also needed new calipers. The old one simply seized due to age.
I hope that your steering pump and rack are in good shape. In this case, switching to a high mileage formula Power Steering Fluid is probably going to help the problem. I found that the Honda Steering system takes Lucas fluid quite well.
is this '00 s2k with 145k miles the first one to roll off the lot?! Do you plan on having the car for a long time? if so, go with something with HALF the miles. If you spend some time looking, you'll find the right one with a comparable price. Dont just settle. c'mon. They have made a lot of changes since 2000.
Unless the price is just ridiculously cheap.. in which case I may grab it up.
Are you aware they have made the S2000 for 10 years? (wow, right?) A '00 is not the same as a '03. When you buy a new(used) car, always make sure you know what trim your getting. Also, make sure you know what changes were made to the car during the production years. ex: 1999 is the first year of production. 2004 introduced a new engine and several changes.
Its really late and im not thinkin straight.
but my rant is not over.. Why buy a car with this high mileage in the first place? I can understand if your money is tight.. but to get what the S2000 is all about, you'll need to put even more money into it just to bring it back to life! Like someone said earlier.. new damper$, $pring$, belt$, oil, $ensor$, oh god. look what ive done.. its 4:30am! haha i need to go to bed.
Good luck with your search! Just do your research and you'll find what you're looking for.

I think you have struck a chord with me sir. :facepalm:
Unless the price is just ridiculously cheap.. in which case I may grab it up.

Are you aware they have made the S2000 for 10 years? (wow, right?) A '00 is not the same as a '03. When you buy a new(used) car, always make sure you know what trim your getting. Also, make sure you know what changes were made to the car during the production years. ex: 1999 is the first year of production. 2004 introduced a new engine and several changes.
Its really late and im not thinkin straight.
but my rant is not over.. Why buy a car with this high mileage in the first place? I can understand if your money is tight.. but to get what the S2000 is all about, you'll need to put even more money into it just to bring it back to life! Like someone said earlier.. new damper$, $pring$, belt$, oil, $ensor$, oh god. look what ive done.. its 4:30am! haha i need to go to bed.
Good luck with your search! Just do your research and you'll find what you're looking for.

I think you have struck a chord with me sir. :facepalm:




