They do lose more oil for several reasons. 1. Ap1 cylinder bores were bored without a torque plate on the head. They changed and improved manufacturing practices with ap2 engines where they were bored with a torque plate to simulate the head being in place to get a more accurate bore cut - that simulates the engine fully assembled. After the ap1 engine was assembled the cylinder shape could have changed with the head insteaded and torqued. 2. The 9000 rpm limit increases wear compared to 8000 rpms, wear increases exponentially with each rpm increase, cylinders going out of round are not uncommon. Ap2's will not wear as quickly with a lower rpm limit. 3. The valvecover and pcv system was improved on ap2 engines, the ap1 pcv valve was in a location that had oil collecting during cornering conditions, so it sucked vapours and oil into the manifold under certain conditions rather than just vapours. Those three things made a big difference between ap1 and ap2 motors and ap2 motors are known to consume less oil. Lastly, all high rpm vtec Honda motors have the propensity to consume oil as cylinder conditions change drastically after vtec engages and at higher rpms in general, the cylinder pressure changes and air-fuel changes can cause oil to work its way around the rings easier at high rpms and in vtec rpm zones.

Slalom44 may be the owner you are referring to, he installed an oil pre-luber on his engine it sends pressurized oil through the engine prior to start-up when parts tend to be low on oil (after sitting for a while), that reduces start up wear immensely, I think it can also provide added oil supply during oil starvation or low oil pressure events to help save the engine. I think his engine will go a million miles , that is a great setup, plus his oil filter set up is different in addition to this.

 

Slalom44 goes 40k miles on his oil. But he has a dual remote bypass filter installed + I think the stock filter. I'm not sure if he changes the oil filters during his long oil runs. But he has a AP1 and he does use oil, make up oil in his last 6 oil changes(240k miles) is 5.5 qts, 10 qts, 10 qts, 11 qts, 17 qts. and the last one 22 qts.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...bypass.297133/

He puts a lot of miles on his S that's for sure. Hell, I only have 200k on my '06.

Rod

 

Here is a link to another thread with the details of the set up Slalom44 installed with parts identified and pictures of the installation.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...0/#post-762080

 

You can also sand or sandblast the end of the dipstick to achieve the same result. One important thing is to check BOTH sides of the stick. It is possible to have oil on one side and have a different reading on the other.

 

I'd rather use fire than anything with the word sand in it. I don't want to risk putting contaminants into my motor, when there is an alternative that is actually easier.

Yes, you can clean the stick before dipping it back in place. But what if...

Its more work sanding or blasting followed by cleaning and inspecting, than to just use fire.

Some stuff was blocking my toolbox, so I just used the kitchen gas stove burner.

Why yes, the wife was indeed not at home when this took place. How did you know?

 

Well we know the brand of oil is really the most important thing here.

 

It is. And the correct brand is the brand I am using. I heard all the others burned off 10X faster, leaked out of ever crevice, caused complete engine failures and even causes peoples babies to be born naked. Oh wait ... I am NOT using Amsoil so I dont have to say all those things ....