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Everything is looking good. One question. Why not just get rid of the damn dust shield? Its a race car, no one give a crap if the wheels get dusty. Its just extra weight.
Everything is looking good. One question. Why not just get rid of the damn dust shield? Its a race car, no one give a crap if the wheels get dusty. Its just extra weight.
Actually, the shields keep the dust off of the ball joint/tie rod boots and the cv joints which is a good thing. It really does nothing to keep the dust off the wheels which I don't care about.
Today, the engine comes apart. Let see how much foliage and fecal matter accumulates in an F20C after sitting for a few months...
The White Table
Some Lube:
And apart she comes!
My celebrity guest helper: Rene
Now, for the gross stuff:
More disassembly:
The old harness which was cut up:
The Starter:
These shots really aren't in any particular order, I took some of these to remember how to put stuff back together
While Rene and I were attacking the engine, Jose was prepping the engine bay for paint:
Here is a lesson about what spilled clutch and brake fluid does to metal, Jose had to grind away ALOT of material to remove the pitting and corrosion in this area directly under the master cylinders:
MORE CELEBRITY GUESTS ...who says this show doesn't deliver?
Dario & Diana assist in final prep for paint in the engine bay:
Subframe comes out:
Rar.
I decided that no matter what color the car was going to be, I'd want the engine bay to be white. This makes for ease of touchup, contrast with leaking fluids, left over tools and small children, nitrous bottles, and Slick 50.
Today I gave the engine bay two more coats and began work on the head:
Misc painted pieces:
The parts that are going in (Titanium retainers, Double SS valve springs, and new double spring locators):
The tools:
Removing the cam caps:
This is how it should look like when we put it back together ( ):
Caps & cams off:
Rocker assembly:
The valve train:
The process is...
1) Pressurize the cylinder with air (keeps the valve from dropping into the cylinder:
2) Compress the valve spring and remove the keepers:
This is what comes out: the OEM spring seat on the right, the two keepers on the magnet (these hold the valve to the retainer), and the retainer which is on top of the OEM valve spring:
Comparison of the new spring seat (left) to the OEM (right). Notice the new one has two grooves for the two springs that will be going in. This helps to keep the center valve spring from moving around:
Oem valve spring (bottom), new dual stainless springs (top):
3) Compress the new retainer and springs and slide keepers back in:
And you're done!
Then you get to do it 15 more times....
Pause for a commercial break:
Onward we go:
Once Rene went home, Jose jumped in:
The last one!!:
Done!
Oil pan removed and cleaned (still waiting on Scienceofspeed for a baffled pan):
Earlier, Jose worked on a blockoff plate for the valve that I removed at the back of the intake manifold that is part of the secondary air pump system. This obviously isn't necessary in a race car so it got scrapped:
I also decided to wrinkle paint the scratched up valve cover:
Ok Alex just for the record...........How many spray cans so far 42? No wonder I went to Home Depot on NW 57 Ave and they don't have any white color left