You got these two backwards.

We bolted the mounts to the subframe first then we slid the subframe/mounts from the front of the engine towards the rear and then bolted the mounts on.

 

That's not the pic I remember you taking, there's another!!!....

 

yea there is another pic

 

Doh! Edited!



We tried it so many different ways I don't even know which one worked!

 

Nice work, 26 days in the build already hehe, hope that when I'm back I have time if you guys are working to come by and see the baby beast.

 

There's actually alot more. I should name them updates rather than days. Sometimes I combine days for the sake of continuity and because we'd stop in the middle and continue the next day.

 

Nice build

 

hi fyerstrike this is ahmed from miata.net, i have a qustion about the build, will it be ok if i raise the engine to clear the crossmember?

 

No, in order to clear the Miata's subframe with the stock F20C oil pan you'd have to raise the engine about 4 inches. This won't work because a) the trans will hit the tunnel and b) the motor mounts won't line up, and c) the hood won't close. I'm sure there are other reasons but the conclusion made was that it was much easier to hack up the Miata subframe (which I think you mentioned you can't do in your country).

 

Makin a hood scoop is not a problem, btw i bought an engine, trans, diff, ecu, wiring loom, instrument cluster all of a 2005 s2k. so yeah hood can be modified, 4 inch higher mounts and cut trans tunnel. That is not a problem as long as there is no cuts or welds on the cross member. A 4 inch lift will not cause bad handling or things like that? i will also try to make an adapter to hang the diff, customize the ppf rather than welding a support bar in the chassis.