used 2000/2500 grit sand paper between base coat and primer. That is what did the damage.

I used 105 and then 205 to try and clean it up later but at that point I decided I was going to have it painted so why bother. For a learning exercise, I might continue to polish by hand with 205 some more this weekend to see if will get any better. I only spent a few minutes on this I don't know how long I am supposed to rub. I have been using an old T-shirt. Do I need a special pad?

 

The badges and and the headlight along with the bumper will have to be removed. The paint spot/damage will have to be matched and shot, blended in. The entire fender will have to be sanded and clear coated. Reinstall badging, headlights and bumper.

$1000.

 

THANKS!

Thats what I have been quoted at Honda body shop. The maaco shop that I have done work at before in Chantilly, VA (whom I trust more), has given me a rough estimate of $1100 for the fender, and the drivers side door. I can see the actual estimate being closer to $1500. I am prepared for that.

 

Spend 10-15 minutes and elbow grease hitting with M105 and the M205 each -- clean microfiber towel should be fine -- that should make a difference on the sandpaper scuffing. You can't just use 2000 grit sandpaper and call it a day afterwards -- you need to compound it to get it back to show-finish.

Did you actually burn through your clearcoat and burn your paint when wetsanding? E.g. You saw the silver paint on your sandpaper? If not, then it's just the scuffed clearcoat which you need to compound out with liberal amounts of the M105 and M205.

 

I have a question on that. I obviously didn't spend enough time polishing (maybe a minute tops - I think, in my mind I was going to polish at the end). I applied liberal amounts of clear coat to the scuffed area in hopes that it would make it shinny. Should I use the paint thinner\remover I got to remove the clear coat before I try to polish the area again? I can't imagine, I'd be able to dig past a few layers of clear to get to the scuffed up base coat under neath? I can't imagine any amount of scrubbing would get under the clear at this point, unless I use 2000 gri sand paper and sort of start over with the sanding process (at this point it is only a learning experience for me).

 

cant you just pay your deductible and get it resprayed ? i got hit with a single rock from a truck that left a zinger down my rear quarter panel, i payed $300 deductible and my paint guy milked the insurance company for $1500 and resprayed half my car

 

I've been told that you can't really lay clearcoat properly yourself as a fellow layman as a touch-up spot area -- I'd research more to see if paint thinner will get it off without damaging the rest of your paint, prior to the polishing compounds. You're right that the compounds alone won't cut through your extra clearcoat that you applied yourself.