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Originally Posted by tekstar,Jun 23 2008, 08:13 PM
physically using your hand to lower that bar serves the same purpose as the straps lowering the bar...
and your top can still tear even if you are lowering the bar correctly.
You are correct sir. But $20 is well worth it for me to make the top WORK CORRECTLY, and not have to use my hand to make it go down (sometimes 5-10 times a day, up and down). Not to mention I have my top wired to be able to go down while moving (slowly of course), and I'd rather focus on not running into things than making my top do something that it should be doing on its own
The straps are not the only thing I'll be doing to fix this. I'll be reinforcing the wear spots and covering the sharp edges of the frame with something soft.
I just got my S2000 about a month ago and did some maintenance tonight....CHANGE YOUR CABIN FILTER!!!!! This is my cabin filter....MY05 with 20K on the clock!!!!!!
Originally Posted by mporreca01,Jun 24 2008, 12:48 AM
I just got my S2000 about a month ago and did some maintenance tonight....CHANGE YOUR CABIN FILTER!!!!! This is my cabin filter....MY05 with 20K on the clock!!!!!!
Holy crap, Batman!!
That thing is NASTY. I can't wait to see what mine looks like after twice as many miles!
Originally Posted by 3ngin33r1,Jun 23 2008, 07:17 PM
@47k?
I recommend the valve adjustment regardless of miles. A group of owners in my area got together for a valve adj. tech day a few years back. Every single car, regardless of mileage, had at least 1-2 valves out of spec, all to the loose side. Adjusting them all towards the tight end of the spec (.008 intake, .010 exhaust for AP1, IIRC) resulted in smoother, quieter idle, and the butt-dyno detected a better throttle response.
Originally Posted by jeffbrig,Jun 24 2008, 02:03 PM
I recommend the valve adjustment regardless of miles. A group of owners in my area got together for a valve adj. tech day a few years back. Every single car, regardless of mileage, had at least 1-2 valves out of spec, all to the loose side. Adjusting them all towards the tight end of the spec (.008 intake, .010 exhaust for AP1, IIRC) resulted in smoother, quieter idle, and the butt-dyno detected a better throttle response.
i had mine done at 50k when i got my car and 2 valves were out of spec
Originally Posted by jeffbrig,Jun 24 2008, 05:03 PM
I recommend the valve adjustment regardless of miles. A group of owners in my area got together for a valve adj. tech day a few years back. Every single car, regardless of mileage, had at least 1-2 valves out of spec, all to the loose side. Adjusting them all towards the tight end of the spec (.008 intake, .010 exhaust for AP1, IIRC) resulted in smoother, quieter idle, and the butt-dyno detected a better throttle response.
Was this in Ft. Lauderdale?
Do you know any members around my area (NE Florida) that can do this? I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but when it comes to pulling things off of the motor itself, I get scared
Originally Posted by colonelbrown,Jun 23 2008, 02:32 PM
It's an '03 with 47k miles. Very clean, but no I do not know the maintenance history. This is the reason I'd really like to take the precaution of replacing things.
Danny
If you don't know the maintenance history, then do the coolant, brake, and clutch fluid too. You can also do the usual checks for brake pad wear, rotor thickness, etc. too.