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Which should I go for AP1 or AP2?

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Old Aug 11, 2015 | 06:17 PM
  #71  
s2k4life_az's Avatar
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PM me some details of the car.
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Old Aug 11, 2015 | 07:00 PM
  #72  
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Later down the line I want to get a CR in ABP or GPW. If I can't find what I want ill buy an MY03 to drive around. I've always wanted to drive an AP1 although none of my friends have one lol, we're all AP2's.
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 07:23 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by DARK_S2000
Later down the line I want to get a CR in ABP or GPW. If I can't find what I want ill buy an MY03 to drive around. I've always wanted to drive an AP1 although none of my friends have one lol, we're all AP2's.
Plenty of them in AZ though. More affordable now to average buyer. I hear you though.
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 10:35 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Gappa
I am looking at several and I am sure this has been discussed to absolute DEATH! but help a nooby and give me a brief pro/con on each. Which is quicker... What is better about the newer models. I am looking at spending anywhere from 14-17k so I have found some decent examples of each with low miles and accident free.
You shouldn't go out of your way to purchase an Ap1, unless your a die hard enthusiastic who absolutely needs the 9k redline and legendary high revving engine!

Its more important to find the best deal you can (low miles, new year).

However, if you do go with an Ap1, just get one with the soft top replaced and upgraded to a glass window.

-----------------

I purchased my Ap1 at around 90k miles, put 400 dollars of repairs into it (new injectors), performed regular maintenance (oil, transmission, diff, coolant, clutch fluid, brake pads, brake fluid, sparkplug, serpentine belt (jeez, that's a big list!), and bought two rounds of tires over the last two years. Besides maintenance, I've done nothing else! That's pretty darn reliable. Also, I just got back from a 1,500 round trip today. For a 13 thousand dollar car, it's been so good to me. Paint, seats, dash, etc is still in good condition as well.
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 12:01 PM
  #75  
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always get the newest model in the best condition that you can afford. as much as i love my s2k, it's not a classic Ferrari or Porsche. the ap2 is way nicer than the ap1.
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 08:39 PM
  #76  
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always get the oldest model in the best condition that you can afford. as much as i love my s2k, it's not a classic Ferrari or Porsche. the ap1 is way nicer than the ap2.
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Old Aug 13, 2015 | 09:07 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by s2ka
always get the oldest model in the best condition that you can afford. as much as i love my s2k, it's not a classic Ferrari or Porsche. the ap1 is way nicer than the ap2.
It's getting harder and harder to find clean AP1's. If you do find one i wouldn't hessitate to snatch it up.
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Old Aug 26, 2015 | 08:03 PM
  #78  
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Over here on the east coast ap1 are plentiful . There's always a few low miles stock ones around for sale
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 02:47 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by steven975
MY00-01: plastic window. That's really the only bad thing. It is the S2000 as intended, though. It has an ugly carpet console, but leather upgrades are abundant.

MY02-03: glass window, 2.0L, better, but still crappy, sound system

MY04-05: 2.2L engine, new bumpers and a softer suspension. IMO, the AP2 does look better.

MY06-08: Stability control, drive-by-wire throttle, 2.2L engine, even softer suspension. This will be out of your price range most likely.

The MY00-01 is the most "raw" car. It's the most challenging to drive, and rides harder than the others. MY02-03 a little less so, but it's noticeably more aggressive than the MY04-08. In a low-speed autocross, the AP2 has an advantage. One can throw "APX is faster 0-Y" all they want, as either car is going to have it's spot where it's quicker.

The AP2 is quicker around town, but all models seem to be equally quick when you go all-out. It also has a little more peak horsepower, but the 2.0L has a wider powerband and a 9K redline. The AP2 is the "Americanized" S2000.

If I had to buy today, I'd probably get a MY06-08. MY06-08 can be flashpro'd, so that's a plus. Stability control is also a good addition, and it's one of the few cars where it can be completely de-activated. Not sure about long term reliability of that system...could be an expensive repair if it breaks.

If you find one you like, buy it regardless of year. The extra torque is 9 pounds...it is not "night and day". IMO, the extra oomph is more due to the shorter primary reduction than it is the engine. An AP1 can have an AP2 transmission or a new final drive added.

Ultimate? MY02-03 with a blower, b/c that's what I have

Any MY02-03 in excellent condition is going to fall in the $13-14K area. I wouldnt' get a mediocre MY05 over a tip-top MY02, for example.
Good post.
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