I understand that it will cost some weight, but I'd be interested to see what could be done for ~10 net pounds added, with replacement of less effective, heavier original materials with more effective, lighter materials.

 

You would be most impressed with the product testing that chipperman has been doing on the S2000. From what I have learned, your statement about the material weight vs. sound dampening quality is absolutely correct. Getting that balance right, along with a reasonable cost, is the difficult part of this project.

Chipperman has been keeping me informed on this project, but I cannot appreciate all of the technical details (my field is anesthesia). I've got a stack of different types of sound dampening materials that chipperman has tested, and I don't know what half of them are. I do know for sure that he is testing sound levels AND frequencies, and is doing "real world testing" i.e. with the car parked, moving at different speeds/RPMs, top up/down, etc.

Some of the products that chipperman has tested have worked well, but the cost of the materials are so high, they wouldn't be feasible. I believe that all of the products chipperman is testing are from the aviation industry.

-Pete

 

We will be using lighter, better materials than stock. Of course, you all know that the oem material isn't working too well. There is a trade off here, but no free lunch. You can, of course, remove your spare tire and jack, which will more than compensate. Remember, this is not rotating mass here. A lot of you have very heavy aftermarket wheels and tires, amps, subs, and who knows what else. The best way would be to try a few performance runs afterwards. I'll bet those who gain 40 hp with just a cold air intake will probably lose 2-3 seconds in the quarter mile with the soundproofing.
But seriously, (or was I?) the goal here is to MAKE THE CAR QUIETER. You may do as you wish with what I sell you. However, I have done six different combinations of some very expensive materials, and will have numbers to back up my reasoning. It's sort of like taking medication: if one is good, two is twice as good. Don't bet on it. The tough part is to strike a balance between what works and is cost effective. I've worked hard to make it easy to install with minimal tools everyone has. And, yes, it is not cheap, but that is relative. I'll have numbers soon. Keep in mind that this is a permanent upgrade, won't blow a fuse, wear out, make noise, eat your disc, or fall off your dash. Small comforts can be nice, ask any woman about how a diamond makes her feel. I'm just trying to make the car a little more tolerable. You could just take a nail and puncture your eardrums and save all that weight, but I hope you'll like this a lot more. You've all been very patient and I love this feedback; keeps me sharp!

 

awaiting the details.

 

C'mon man. Give us a ball park price at least. Then we'll at least know if we need to keep checking this thread or not .

ron

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Kodokan_4
You would be most impressed with the product testing that chipperman has been doing on the S2000.

I do know for sure that he is testing sound levels AND frequencies, and is doing "real world testing" i.e. with the car parked, moving at different speeds/RPMs, top up/down, etc.

 

yes i understand that youre trying to sound proof the car but what's point of going overboard? i mean if i wanted a lexus i woul dhave gotten the LS430. but it's a roadster. most of us would be happy to get rid of some of the freeway droning. what you did the in beginning with 10-15 lbs is great and will prob work better for most of us.

 

Can't wait to see the end results!

 

also still very much interested.

 

The acoustic foam came in today, so I will start assembling the car Sunday. To answer a few questions, such as what's the point of going overboard, etc. let's remember that we have a unibody car that will pick up a lot of road noise. I am trying to get that to a reasonable level. But, since it is a convertible, a huge amount of noise comes in through the top, side and rear glass. If you want a good example of this , run your car in the garage (with the door open) and listen to how the reflected sound from the floor seems to come in at ear level. There is no way to stop this. And, I have deliberately avoided the hood area so as not to add weight up high and or affect the aluminum. I don't think it would help much anyway.
I've tried really hard to get this kit format to a reasonable level of ease for installation. It consists of only two components, not the six or so I tried in combination previously. I am not going to speculate on pricing, as I don't yet know final quantities, but you will have to judge whether it's of value to you. I'll post noise levels and a driving impression. All the testing is done on the same stretch of road, uphill one way, down on the return. The decibels are affected by the road surface, so that is why I use the same section each time. As far as reducing quantities, "a little pregnant", "half dead", etc. won't work. If you don't go all the way, you will be disappointed. For the ten pound proponents, fill your trunk with pillows. It works, it's cheap, and it's somewhat light. For storage space and a totally stock look, I'll have something else. The end is in sight. Stay tuned, and write if you have questions.