I was looking in the Helm's, and they don't list the sizes of the bolts (I didn't think they did) or the O2 sensor. The torque spec for both the primary and secondary O2 sensor is 33ftlb if that helps. I don't know how one would go about measuring the applied torque in that situation. Is that what a "crows foot" is for?

 

yeh seriosuly how would you measure torque down there any other tips in handling the o2 so I dont damage? tools so far: 14mm for exhaust bolts, 22m crescent for 02 sensor? and wd40...and?

 

Don't spill powdered graphite on it. (don't ask)

 

I hear I need a 16mm wrench also?

 

I have no idea, but I would use 6 point sockets where I could and wrenches for where I had to. BTW Good luck.

 

yeh my garage is a mess and half my tools are scattered so I will probably just buy new 16mm socket...16mm wrench eh whatever

 

I couldn't get a socket on any of the bolts to take off my cat... I would always hit something, mainly the heat sheild. The testpipe install went much easier since there was now plenty of room to work and I could get a socket on everything. Of course you will need an open ended wrench for the O2 sensor regardless. 33lbs for the O2 sensor.. I don't remember the other specs off the top of my head.. 29-32 for the rear bolts, maybe 16lb for the spring bolts. Be prepared for a lot of bitching and moaning trying to get rusted bolts offespecially if you don't want to wait a long time for a lubricant to soak in

 

As per your PM, there is no official write up on putting on a testpipt. There is this about the mechanical O2 sensor:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=229959

A "Crescent" wrench is just an adjustable open ended wrench that has a range of sizes that it will fit. They have also been known as "monkey" wrenches. Spray the O2 with a penetrant, wait a few minutes, put the Crescent wrench on it and tighten it down snug. Make sure you know for sure which direction is "loosen" and give it a good "snap" to break it free. Then it'll twist off in your hand. Notice that the wiring will twist as you unscrew it. Twist it the same amount before installing it onto the t. pipe so you don't have it twisted when it's on.
The cat has spring bolts on the front. Those are buggers to get off without a PAIR of wrenches. Most wrenches will just round off the front nuts, so I use something like this:

The more force you apply to them, the more they grab. The spring bolts themselves can be turned with a box end wrench or a good socket.
The rear end of the cat are those 3 bolts that hold the exhaust on. Spray them well too. Those will come off with a socket.

Oh, one last hint. If you look down into the bore of the testpipe, you'll notice just how rough and cruddy looking it is. That's all the welding residue and manufacturer bits left behind. Clean those out with a brush and run a cloth down it to smooth it out. Why spend the money to make a free flowing section only to leave all those rough bumps in there to disrupt the flow?

 

Just spray all of the bolts with something like PB blast, or WD40. Let them sit for a couple of minutes, it will make your life easier.

Oh, here is a pic of what you should see when you are finished:



Good luck

-Chris

 

NICE PIC